Corsetry 101 for those unfamiliar: The back of this Victorian corset laces up. The front opens and closes with aid of a busk – sort of like a modern-day bra’s back closure. You sew the busk in, which is what I did today. The front center top of the corset is represented by the safety pins – a tip from the invaluable Laughing Moon DVD.
After you trace the closure positions on the right-hand side of the corset (marking the wrong side of lining), you stitch and backstitch to leave openings in between the lining and shell. Then turn, press, and topstitch reinforce: you can see I’ve marked with pins where I need to leave an opening for the closures.
Here I’m inserting the right-hand busk side between lining and shell.
Topstitch busk in place. I did a pretty wonky job. Will do better next time; I need a different zipper foot for this.
Busk in place.
Setting post-side of busk. I’m starting to enjoy punching (or rather, awling) holes in fabric. This was easier than grommet setting (by hand, mallet, and die set) as well.
To drive in awl: here my fingers are positioned on front center seam. Put the awl perpendicular while driving it in for the most exact placement.
Today I also applied shrink tubing to the ends of my laces (aglet and crimper will be bought at a future date) and am ready to sew the shell together for the second fitting. Fun and more fun!
(Flickr tag set on corsetry)
Hi Kelly – your beautiful corset has inspired me to start my own – . I am ordering the Laughing Moon DVD today, but perhaps you can tell me before I get it – Did you use the fabric they call “coutil” at all? I see you mention cotton duck for the lining – just wondered if you picked that because you had it in your stash or if you consulted anyone (or perhaps the pattern…) before starting with this fabric as the lining. Thanks
Elaine
Hi Elaine,
I’m so glad to inspire anyone to sew, any time.
You don’t have to use coutil. You can use denim or something similar. You want something strong as the outer layer because it is where the strain is felt (not the lining). Then you can use a pretty cotton or brocade or whatever you like for an overlay (my pink and olive fabric). The lining is my thin white print.
For your outer fabric (strength fabric) you want no stretch in the fabric, either. So a bottomweight canvas / twill / denim / duck are all appropriate.
Coutil is a particular weave and you can get it many places – I think I saw some at denverfabrics. However – they also have bull denim much cheaper – $5/yard.
As for my fabric, my duck was suggested to me for corsetry by a seamstress at Esther’s in Bainbridge and while it is strong, it had drawbacks – it retained wrinkles from the dryer like no one’s business!
Remember, you are lining the fabric with whatever you want – I suggest something soft and breathable.
Oh and: do order the pattern from laughing moon as well. Don’t order busk, bones, or grommets yet. You will be making a muslin first – find some cheap bottomweight denim for that.
Remember, my opinions are having made ONE corset. But keep in mind: I am an intermediate seamstress and I did do some research. There is kind of a learning curve to corsetry but my first effort is going very well, and will be a beautiful garment!
If you have any other questions don’t hesitate to email me – kellyhogaboom AT gmail DOT com.