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jalie hoodie sew-along post 5: Step 5 assembly

Edit November 2015: the sew-along is finished! Below you can reach the different parts of the sew-along by clicking on an image. The tagset “jalie hoodie sew-along” contains any and all posts relating to the sew-along. Enjoy!

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Hey there stitchers! Time to get back to hoodie-stitching! And before we start: here’s my second version of the Jalie hoodie:

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I made this beauty as a cosplay piece for my daughter, at her request. Based off the iconic hoodie of emo, surly Robbie from “Gravity Falls”:

Robbie, "Gravity Falls"
So: onward and upward! We’re assembling our hood today!

Excited!

Besides adding thumbhole cuffs, and omitting topstitching, this hood is the only aspect I changed about the hoodie from the Jalie instructions. And put simply: I lined the hood. Lining sounds complex and intimidating, but most of the time it just means making a garment, or part of a garment, twice, and inserting the lining. This insertion can at times be tricky – say for a blazer, or a garment with a different-shaped lining than the shell – but in this case, it is easy-peasy.

So if you’d like to line your hood, simply cut out an additional upper hood (piece I, on the fold), and two additional lower hoods (piece J).

That’s it!

If you are at all confused about hood lining, please read through this post first before stitching.

So here are our instructions, for the unlined hood:

Jalie 2795: Step 5

The hood piece shapes are rather confusing, no? However, if you look at the diagram for piece J (lower hood), you can see that we are sewing along the back of the hood first (figure 33). The diagram is showing those pieces right-side up. After those are sewn (and top-stitched, if you wish, figure 34), you sew the upper hood – piece I – to the lower hood pieces, and topstitch (figures 35 and 36, resp).

Now, simply do the same thing with your lining pieces. In my case, I cut my lining pieces very carefully so the stripes would match up within the hood.

Then, I pinned the lining and the shell of the hood together, wrong sides facing, and finished the edges of the hood front (piece K, and figure 37). The hood is ready to be assembled:

Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along: Starting Soon!
Now, I simply sewed the hood front to the hood shell and lining (figure 38). As you know, I omit topstitching (figure 39).

Now: keep in mind that if you want a completely clean inside finish, you can simply sew the hood shell to one long edge of the hood front, right sides together, and sew the hood lining to the other long edge of the hood front, right sides together. Then just push the lining into the hood, and give a quick steam press at the folded edge.

You do not need to finish the lower edges of the completed, lined hood, as the collar piece will enclose it. You can see the collar – which I made in a polkadot so you could distinguish it from the hood lining – that will be obscuring this seam:

Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along: Starting Soon!

I hope you also realize this means you can add all sorts of things to your hood – ears, horns, a My Little Pony mane – because the lining will cover all those inner finished details!

OK? OK!

We are almost finished – one post to go! Make sure, stitchers, to check out the Facebook group, where many people have been sharing their hoodie creations!

Here are the sew-along badges:

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