This post is the third in a total entry of four sew-along posts for footed pajamas! Our first post concerned supplies and preparation, and our second post dealt with the first step of the pattern. Remember, this sew-along finishes its first round on the last day of December 2015 – and I have a very lovely prize challenge for one completist! (Read more in my first comment!)
Today, we’re applying the zipper to the center front. I not only do it a little differently than the pattern, I have a few alternate suggestions.
Please read ahead before stitching:
As I mentioned in our first step, I sewed right up to the notch when making the center front crotch curve. I also left the zipper full-length (I did not cut off the top of the zipper), and I did not sew a strip of fabric to the zipper bottom. I do use a zipper foot, and line up the zipper tape edge with the raw edge of the fabric, moving my needle position so I am sewing 1/4″ from the edge:
Next, I flip the zipper face-down and sew the second seam, lining up the edge with the seam allowance. You’ll notice my super lo-fi method of zipper application means you are sewing the stitch right on the threadline of the zipper tape. The seam allowance and zipper width math works out perfectly:
But a few more words about this front closure, however:
I was able to do a painless, easy zipper because I am confident in zipper application, and because I interfaced the velour so it wouldn’t distort – not to mention, I have an IDT on my Pfaff which means layers don’t creep while I sew.
If I had a second-favorite method, I’d likely forgo a zipper entirely and make an overlap with buttons, like I have done on so many Max costumes! Buttons aren’t as convenient as zippers – but they are vintage and adorable!
And my third preferred method: I would have set in the zipper right after putting in the pockets, and topstitched. As follows:
1. First, widen the entire center front seam allowance to 1″ and interface the entire seam allowance from neckline to 1″ below the notch.
2. Next, stitch fronts together from the crotch raw edge to the notch, with a firm backstitch. Leave the needle down at the notch position.
3. Lengthen stitch to long basting length: finish the front to neckline. Clip right to the notch and gently press the zipper installation length open. Finish all seams, if desired.
4. Hand-baste the zipper into the center front.
5. Topstitch the zipper in from the right-side of the garment, pivoting at the bottom of the zipper and taking care not to strike the zipperstop.
5. Remove basting stitches and make sure zipper operates smoothly.
So yes, there are many ways to set in a zipper! With velour, I find the minimum amount of topstitching is best. And as you can see, my quick-and-dirty zipper looks just fine:
Next up – we are putting in the collar, and finishing up our jam-jams! #w00t!