jalie-kini sew-along: swim shorts

Today in our final installment of the jalie-kini sew-along we’re making up Jalie 3351 – a swimshorts pattern! These shorts feature two side pockets, a fitted waistband, and built-in briefs. I predict you’ll adore them once you try them out!

So let’s go!

A recap: we’ve assembled our supplies. We’ve cut our fabrics. Last installation, we made up a bikini!

Let’s look at our shorts pieces, shall we?

So pieces G, H, and I are the briefs installed in the shorts. I don’t want to freak anyone out, but I do want to drop some knowledge about sewing with performance knits (i.e. swimwear and other fabrics with lycra/spandex/elastane). In the case of these swim shorts, I wanted to install black briefs, and I didn’t have a black swimsuit lining. So I used a polyester/lycra with a little less stretch than the pattern’s requirements. I simply calculated the stretch difference, and traced a larger brief size – I think I traced size X rather than the size I used to trace the shorts were traced.

This exercise demonstrates what’s so fun about sewing swimwear or “negative ease” patterns. You really can grade in between sizes liberally, and simply add width or length (or both) to your pattern pieces if you have a fabric that performs differently than the intended fabric – and it’s pretty much simple math. I will say, however, that doing this can be a bit confusing – and experience is the best teacher.

A few more things to note about the pattern before we move on. All the pieces except the brief have curved top edges – so your pockets will have a slight curved edge up top. The waistband is wider than the waistband facing – all to make an ingenious little finished product. 

So let’s get sewing!

First, we sew up the two curved crotch seams for front and back. Then, we place the front and back shorts right-side together and sew the entire inseam. For all these seams I used a double-row of stitching for reinforcement:

Now it’s time to put together the side panels! They look tricky, but they’re not. In order to get a good-looking hem, I used some fusible tape to secure the hems, before stitching:

And then I finished with a simple zig-zag. I like zig-zag more than coverstitch or double-needle, especially when dealing with a fabric with a nap or pile – but the latter two stitches look more “professional” (i.e. “ready-to-wear”). All of the above work just fine, however:

Here is a basted side panels (figure 8) right before stitching the pocket seam (figure 9):

Now – side seams!

After joining the side seams to the panels, we then flip up the hem the the wrong-side and stitch along the side seam line, then flip back out. This provides a really clean looking seam. Since I am obsessed with garments looking as good inside as out, I am well-pleased:

And we’ve already got a good-looking pair of shorts, with only the briefs and waist treatment left:

A closeup of the hem:

And a side pocket:

Time for briefs!

First, we sew the crotch seam. I pressed it open for a nice flat finish, then applied the crotch lining:

Then, it’s time to sew up the side seams:

Now – applying the elastic, just as we did for our bikini bottoms:

When sewing the final seam at the leg, make sure to gently stretch behind the presser foot and sew evenly. Also, do not lift the presser foot unless the needle is buried in the garment, on the left-hand swing (as shown below):

Time for the waistband!

I really dig the waistband for these shorts. First, you close the waistband and waistband facing (figure 26). Then, you stitch the waistband and facing together at the top edge (figure 27):

Next, you join the closed waist elastic to the upper edge of the waistband (figure 28):

Next, you (sorta) understitch the elastic to the waistband (not the facing) – figure 29 – then pull the raw edges together to apply to the short (figure 30). The “understitched” seam is hidden inside the garment! Pretty keen, huh?

Here I am applying the brief and waistband to the shorts (figure 31). This seam will be hidden in the layers:

Below: the finished shorts, with the “understitching” hidden just inside the waistband! Gorgeous finish, no?

Ladies and gents, I can’t believe I’m saying this but we are once again finished with another sew-along! Well, not quite finished. I am waiting for good sunny weather, so I can take a few shots of my model in her swimwear.

But you! You, on the other hand, have an epic pair of swimshorts which you can now use to kayak, run, swim, paddleboard, or just wear while Netflixing on the couch!

Because YOU! are awesome!