Shirt: Bootstrap Fashion’s free blouse (modified, details below) in Toasted Almond from Robert Kaufman’s “Mammoth” line.
Jeans: Vado custom block (from Jeanio) – boyfriend-style fit with fitted hip. Mid/heavyweight denim (very low stretch) from Pacific Blue.
One of the first intermediate garments I sewed, was a flannel shirt. Listen – I live in Aberdeen, Washington and while we didn’t invent the plaid flannel per se, we sure got it on the scene. In the early 90s – when I sewed my first shirt – the typical M.O. was to find them at thrift stores. I hadn’t filled out yet – I was still a relatively petite C-cup – so I’d buy what was available: the men’s flannels.
Of course, menswear doesn’t fit most women’s bodies in a comfortable or practical way. For me, the shoulders too broad and the arms were too long. The shirt hipline was too narrow yet the waist was baggy. I think that is what my fourteen year old self must have been chasing, when she purchased a lovely raspberry and green soft cotton flannel and embarked on the adventure.
I remember my mom and I squabbled every step of the way. A menswear-styled shirt isn’t exactly a beginner project: you have the cuff plackets and the front placket and fiddly collar and collarstand and pockets! Then there’s the narrow curved hem – ugh! We argued throughout the creation but
These days I pretty much take menswear shirting to #levels. I am constantly pursuing better craftsmanship and new methods. Plaids are amazing because while they take a little extra work to match – the . For this reason, I don’t both using any flannel that isn’t pretty decent quality. And flannel can be tricky that way. It can look great on the bolt – but once you’ve prewashed, turned to rubbish! The “Mammoth” line has been very satisfactory so far and I picture myself sticking with it until I’ve chomped my way through several more of their lovely colorways!
Bias-cut pockets:
(SUUUUPER cheap plastic buttons because they were the best color in my stash!) –
And yes, those are bias-cut cuff plackets, and a bias-cut cuff. I interface the cuff, but not the placket. While interfacing a placket can be very helpful at times, in general you want to use a very, very light interfacing. The medium/heavy weight of the flannel meant interfacing the plackets was not wise. The cuffs, collar, and collarstand interfacing made for a very rugged-feeling shirt.
The entire shirt is french-seamed and I achieved a perfect curved armscye:
Curved baby hem – another potentially frustrating seam to pull off:
Here’s my noir photo of my shirt. Being all mysterious ‘n’ shit:
Finally: I modified the Bootstrap shirt in only two ways – the sleeves, and to add breast pockets. I modified the sleeves for a cuff placket, and to narrow the sleeves. I wanted to be able to wear the plackets open, but have them not flop! Two pleats at the cuff as per tradition.
Now let’s move onto the jeans!
I’ve hosted two jean sew-alongs so it hardly seems like I should keep telling y’all how I make them. I will say this denim was just wonderful to work with. It was mid-to heavyweight, which feels good for a fall/winter jean. It also had a very firm hand. And the blue/black indigo colorway is drool-worthy, especially when coupled with the traditional goldenrod thread work:
Those who’ve been with me a while will remember my Miniature Giant Japanese Baby Bunting and the wonderful fabric I used. Well today I finally got to use the last little bit of this fabric! I used it for my pocketbags and waistband facing, and because I used a crossgrain facing and pieced this facing, I really did use the last bit of this fabric economically. SO SATISFYING!
While I am not totally averse to a curved waistband, steaming the curve into the crossgrain uses less fabric (therefore less bulk), and makes for a better performance and finish – IMO:
(Also note how fly my fly is!):
Some more fly action – belt carrier made from the selvedge:
Stitcwork meeting at the center back yoke:
My own little pocket graphic. I accidentally sewed the pockets on the wrong side – usually the larger curved motif is at the outseam! Brass rivets, zipper, and snap:
Do you use a double needle for your top stitching on the jeans? Or how else do you get such perfect lines? Also, your jeans center back seam, do you do a fancy fold or just a normal seam, edge stitch, iron over and top stitch? I noticed in some RTW jeans by Levi that my center back seam had no raw edges. So I may try that on my next pair.
Also, perfection as usual. And I love the snap/button on the jeans from especially. It’s so non assuming, so casual, and yet classy.
Great jeans. Beautiful top stitching and the design on the back pockets looks wonderful. The flannel shirt is also beautiful. The bias details you’ve been making is a nice detail.
@sonja
Thank you! Making bias details is a great way to skip lots of plaid-matching. The bias pockets, for instance, just have to match one another – but not the shirt front. Bias also breaks up the shirt’s lines. Sometimes you want to do that, other times you don’t!
@MaLora
I swear I wrote this HUGE comment and then something ate it!
So – this is all single-needle tailoring. Yes, it looks pretty perfect. That’s just practice on my part. Years of it. A double-needle would subtly add even more perfection because the stitches would line up perfectly. That said, double needle stitching can’t turn right-angles well. Also: I don’t like the backside of a double-needle stitch, especially for say the inside of the front pockets.
Maybe my next pair of jeans I’ll do double needle and do some comparison!
I am also thinking of teaching a jean-sewing workshop in Olympia. 🙂 I know that’s a big ol’ drive for you but – it would be fun!