Thank you for joining us for our Patterns for Pirates Slim Fit Raglan sew-along!
To recap: I posted a bit about the pattern and supplies a month ago. On the 15th, we cut and marked our fabrics. Today, we are putting together our triangle patch, and our elbow patches (pages 5 through 7 on the pattern). Remember – if you have any questions, you can post them here, email me, or message me through Facebook (either my personal page, or my sewing page – The Vegan Tailor). I want to make sure to help everyone who is participating, to have great results.
And before we start, a reminder my itinerary is as follows:
March 15th: cutting and marking
March 17th (today!): triangle patch & elbow patches
March 19th: seams and neckline
March 21st: cuffs, waistband, and curved hem
For our triangle patch, we simply pin to the front of the shirt. Remember how I had us cut center front notches in the patch, as well as the shirt front? Well there ya go!
Now, in order to get a really good looking patch, there are a couple methods I like to employ. One, I put a water-soluble stabilizer under the shirt, on the wrong-side of the bodice. This helps stabilize the shirt so the stitches “float” on top of the patch, instead of being pulled into the shirt. My fans know I am a phreak for huge fan of Sulky’s Sticky Fabri-Solvy, which is adorable because you can cut a patch, peel it from the backing, and slap it on the backside of your fabric. But of course, any water-soluble stabilizer or even paper, will work here:
Sew slowly, with whatever decorative stitch you like – I’m using a blind hem stitch here. When you get to the bottom of the triangle, you can either extend this line a bit – common in athletic-style shirts and as demonstrated on the P4P SFR pattern front – or you can drive the needle down, pivot, and return up the other side (as I did). The stabilizer here will really help keep your stitching line from tunneling:
Notice the patch, and the shirt are cut on grain, and stitches so well – it is difficult to tell there is even a patch there!
Now, set your front aside – as we’re going for our elbow patches!
If you like the look of an elbow patch but feel a bit nervy about it, you can always make the patches (and the patch linings) out of the same fabric as the sleeve. This will give you a feel for patches, but isn’t as much of a commitment in terms of contrast.
In my case, I used this cool 100% cotton french terry, and lined with a black cotton – the same cotton as my sleeves. So first, I placed the patch and patch lining wrong-sides together, and stitched around the edge:
(Your stitch may distort the fabric a little – but that can be pressed back into shape. Make sure to stitch slowly and keep any ripples from forming in the seam):
Next, go ahead and trim these seam allowances. I like to use pinking sheers, which is like a poor-man’s version of notching. This is the same method used in the pattern (top of page 6):
Here are your finished patches! Now, carefully cut a small slit in the middle of the lining, and turn them inside out.
You can use a bone folder or something similar, to carefully push out your patch so it has a smooth curve. Use steam – and patience.
Then, pin the patch to your marked location, on the right side of your sleeve:
And stitch your patch down! I used a black zig zag – but you can use a contrast stitch if you like or several layers of stitch, even!
Again – the knit stitch may distort the fabric a little. Carry on, and press the patch gently with steam when finished.
There you have it!
I’ll see you on the 19th – when we start piecing the garment! In the meantime if you have questions you can email me, comment here, or find me on Facebook (on my personal page or at The Vegan Tailor)!
Does the V in the front fray after stitching? Would making a facing like the elbows help or would this distort it?
When you say “paper” for the stabilizer, do you,me regular computer paper?
What a great question!
I haven’t yet had a knit fabric that frayed under topstitching conditions like these. Notice the raw edges are almost entirely enclosed, in the stitching job.
Even if it frays a little, you could always clip those teeny threads after laundering.
Making a facing/lining for this patch, would likely result in bulk at the bottom of the “v”, and as you say – distort the patch.
Hi Kate! I have used regular/copy paper – I have also used newsprint and tissue paper. Of the three, newsprint was probably the best. Although a commercial grade stabilizer is my favorite.