seams legit: dress shirt

Kelly Hogaboom, dress shirt livestream

I cannot believe this is the penultimate post in this series! I have enjoyed, so very much, designing these classes and livestreaming with you all.

This month, we are making a simple button-up shirt – sometimes called a “dress shirt”. In truth, you can make this garment as casual or as elegant as you like depending on your fabrics and techniques. In this case, our dress shirt has the following:

1. a front placket with buttons and buttonholes
2. a collar and separate stand
3. a long, cuffed sleeve 
4. a curved hem
5. a back yoke

The pattern we are using is from Lekala and is named “Shirt – Sewing Pattern #6026” – and it’ s free! Even though the pattern is labeled as “men’s”, in truth it’s simply a boxy-fit shirt that will work on most bodies. If you want something more form-fitting and you have a full bust and/or full hip, you can look for a women’s shirt pattern with darts or princess seams.

The cuff included is a placket cuff, but due to my client’s request I will be making a simple cuff (without an attendant sleeve placket).

Lekala patterns are a bit unique. The pattern is not a multi-size pattern, but is generated according to your measurements. You will need to measure your height, bust/chest, low hip, shoulder width, and center back length to hem. In addition, you will need to put in an indicator for belly protuberance. The site itself has helpful photos of how to take these measurements – just note that there is an error in the center back length to hem diagram. The diagram should show the vertical measurement extending from the neck to the hem of the shirt (not the waist).

Bootstrap patterns can take some getting used to. In a tutorial for their dress form (which is fantastic!), I go into more detail as to how to use their interface.  Please post any questions you have below!

One more note on this specific pattern. You can finish the shirt with snaps or buttonholes; I will be demonstrating using my old Singer buttonholer. However, you can use whatever buttonhole attachment your machine has to offer. You can also create a buttonhole with a simple zig zag – here’s a great tutorial.

No matter what kind of buttonhole you are creating, you are expected to practice and to make a couple samples!

A reminder that for all sew-alongs in my Seams Legit series you need:

1. a machine with its manual; the machine needs to be tuned-up and sewing a balanced zig-zag

2. the supplies listed in the pattern, as well as a thorough read-through of the pattern you use

This project will take place in installments (edit: these are linked at the bottom of this post).

SUPPLIES:

Rotary cutter and mat; marking tools & tracing medium

Sewing machine with balanced zig zag; sewing machine manual

The pattern

Thread and machine needle: universal or sharp

Shirting fabric such as cotton, flannel, or light linen

Buttons & buttonholer &/or buttonhole practice

Non-stretch interfacing (optional)

So here’s what you need to do:

1. read through this post, & purchase your pattern & supplies

2. pre-treat your fabrics

3. sew with us live in November (on my FB page or my Twitch stream)!

Update!

We are all finished and the shirt is lovely!

 

 
 
 
 
 
View this post on Instagram
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Bespoke Hogaboom (@kellyhogaboom) on

Here are the videos detailing my process, in order:

[ video 1 ][ video 2 ][ video 3 ]
 

2019 Lk

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