Update: all videos are live, and you can watch them here:
There’s nothing more SUMMER than a new pair of jeans!
This is a very exciting project – hosted by myself alongside my friend Anne Hanna (tailor and slow-fashion guru!) from Ottawa. We are broadcasting on Facebook and Twitch, with a couple IG Live sessions thrown in!
Our goal is to walk you – step by step – in making a pair of custom jeans!
For this project you will need:
1. A tuned up machine that can sew a balanced zig zag, and your machine manual
2. Your pattern, notions, and materials (see below)
3. All thread, cutting and marking implements, et cetera
We are doing the bulk of our sewing the last full week in June. All our livestreams are at 5 PM Pacific Standard Time; all sewing sessions will be broadcast on my Facebook page and my twitch (subscribe!). In addition, Anne and I will be going up on IGLive together to help you through (so – follow us, for heaven’s sake)!
FRI 19: IG LIVE (talking about jeans, mostly, and our supplies)
MON 22: cutting, marking, interfacing
TUE 23: back pockets/yoke, front pockets
WED 24: break, no livestreaming
THU 25: fly, inseam/outseam
FRI 26: waistband, carriers, hem
SAT 27: rivets, buttonhole, button
MON 29: IG LIVE (project recap)
That’s a lot to remember; so please subscribe to my live calendar link if you want to get hooked in!
Now – let’s talk a bit about jeans!
So, we want our livestream to help as many people as possible. And let me first say that no matter your body size and gender identity/expression, jeans are constructed the same way – mostly! (There are always caveats!)
This means whether you like a low or high rise, baggy jeans or jeggings, boot cut or skinny fit or stovepipe – you can sew with us!
However! And this is a big however:
If you use a different pattern than ours, you may have to do a bit of homework to modify your pattern, so that you can work alongside us. At the end of this post, I will link to a handful of other jeans patterns* – courtesy of my lovely Discord server crew, who went scouting for us!
If you aren’t pretty adept at modifying patterns – just stick to the pattern we are using.
And what pattern is that? The Jalie stretch jean! This is a stretch jean in a bootleg, with a zip fly and either a low or medium rise. I selected this pattern for the following reasons:
1. A good size range for child/adult, with waist: 20″ to 44″ and hip 22″ – 53″
2. Jalie’s patterns are always well-drafted
3. Their instructions are great, and their illustrations are available to all
Denim as per pattern recommendations)
Fine weave cotton (for pocket bag)
Interfacing (knit or rigid)
Thread: construction/all-purpose, and topstitching (optional)
Zipper (longer is OK; we’ll show you how to shorten a metal zipper)
Rivets (optional) & setting tool (or hammer)
Remember – your sewing machine needs its manual, you need to be able to sew a balanced zig zag, and you will need cutting and marking tools! In addition, you may find the following helpful:
Wax paper and wheel/tools for tracing and marking
Bone folder (a vegan version, of course!)
Your super cool label/back patch – and yes, homemade is awesome!
Tape/grade, and cut out your paper pattern. Pretreat your fabrics. Thread your machine.
And then we’ll see you on IG Live on the 19th – and on Bespoke Hogaboom (Facebook/Twitch) on the 22nd!
Here are some alternative jeans/trousers to work with. Keep in mind you are responsible to do your homework and make any paper pattern adjustments, to follow along our Jalie-based methods! This means a bit more work for you – so keep that in mind!
Ames Jeans by Cashmerette
waist: 32″ – 43″
hip: 48″ – 59″
Bespoke Jean Pattern Bundle by DIBY Club
30% 2-way stretch
waist: 24″ – 59 3/4″
hip: 34″ – 67″
Fulford Jean by Thread Theory
waist: 26″ – 50″
hip: 35″ – 57″
Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans, Curve
waist: 32″ – 42″
hip: 48″ – 58″
Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans, Regular
waist: 24″ – 34″
hip: 38″ – 48″
Phillipa Pants by Anna Allen
waist: 24″ – 41″
hip: 34″ – 51″
Quadra Jean by Thread Theory
stretch or non-stretch
waist: 26″ – 50″
hip: 35″ – 57″