Friday Pattern Ilford Jacket Sew-Along Livestream, Kelly Hogaboom / Bespoke Hogaboom

friday patterns ilford jacket sew-along

by with No Comment sew-a-longsewing journal
Friday Pattern Ilford Jacket Sew-Along Livestream, Kelly Hogaboom / Bespoke Hogaboom

It’s that time again! Time for another sew-along. As the seasons change and we expect a bit more warmth where I live – I thought, why not a spring, smock-style jacket?

My selection this month is the Friday Ilford Jacket – a simple garment that’s great for the committed beginner ready to upgrade to trying a sleeve placket and a collar – that kind of thing. 

Joining me once again – I am delighted to say! – is my friend Traci Kay Pryde from @pryde.hantverk and we are leading you every step of the way through this fantastic garment!

friday pattern co ilford jacket

Bust: 32″ – 60″
Waist:  24″ – 53″
Hip: 34″ – 63″

Drop-shoulder unlined jacket in two lengths; pattern comes with a few different pocket templates. Plain sleeve or placket-style sleeve.

I’ll be making the short length, and the placket sleeve. I’ll also be interlining the jacket and I’ll talk about that as I go!

Here are the materials you need!

The Ilford Jacket pattern (here)
Buttons (5 – 10; the pattern recommends 1″ – 1 1/2″)
Bottomweight woven (sewing yardages are on page five of the pattern)
Interfacing (1 yard)
All-purpose thread & topstitching thread*
Needles: denim (or heavy, sharp, universal); topstitch needle*
Buttonhole chisel*

* optional

– as well as your tuned-up sewing machine and manual, cutting equipment, pins, scissors, iron and ironing board!

I’ll be sewing on three machines: my domestic Pfaff, a White serger (for some seam finishing), and my Pfaff 130 (for topstitching). If you don’t have three machines never fear – I will be going over how to construct the garment if you are only sewing with one machine.

Our schedule! This sew-along begins 5 PM Pacific on Tuesday the 23rd, hosted simultaneously on my Twitch channel; the videos are then uploaded to my Vimeo channel if you miss out! And all dates are hosted on my Calendar (here’s a live link you can add to your own).

TUE 23: cutting & marking
WED 24: sleeve plackets* & collar
FRI 26: body, front plackets, & cuffs
FRI 26: pockets, hem, buttons & buttonholes

* This pattern has us constructing sleeve plackets right off the bat, instead of when the garment is almost finished. One caveat: you will want to baste-fit and adjust your sleeve length first, because if your intended wearer needs a much shorter sleeve (as mine does!) you could possibly end up with a too-short sleeve placket if you don’t adjust first.

And finally! The best place to ask questions about this sew-along, is right here in the blog post! This blog post serves as the master document. 

Rad Patterns Kelly Jeans Sew-Along Livestream, Kelly Hogaboom / Bespoke Hogaboom

rad patterns kelly jeans sew-along

by sew-a-longsewing journal
Rad Patterns Kelly Jeans Sew-Along Livestream, Kelly Hogaboom / Bespoke Hogaboom

I am honored to be hosting a livestream sew-along for the Rad Pattern Kelly Jean – a rigid jean pattern in a wonderful adult size range!

The name is not a coincidence! Stephanie of Rad Patterns says, “They’re called the Kelly Jeans, named for my amazingly talented friend @bespokehogaboom who’s probably one of the most amazing jeans sewists on the planet”!

Ha ha I’m not crying, you’re crying!

Rad Patterns Kelly Jeans Sew-Along Livestream, Kelly Hogaboom / Bespoke Hogaboom

rad patterns kelly jean

Waist: 22 1/2″ – 73″
Hip: 32 1/2″ – 83″

Rigid (non-stretch) jean in several lengths. Curved waistband, zip fly, slouchy/boyfriend fit, low pockets.

My best jean-making tip: slow down! Read the directions, proceed carefully, and don’t be afraid to seam-rip and adjust for fit!

Let’s get moving! Jeans are tricky enough I thought I’d do a quick introduction video – covering our materials but also a bit of muslin prep. You can also skip ahead and read on before watching the video (in fact, I recommend reading this whole post first before watching anything). If you see anything goofy or confusing – just go ahead and leave a comment and I will attend to it directly!

Remember: I will be sewing live, and I will embed and upload the entire video playlist here as I go:

Here are the materials you need!

The Kelly Jean pattern (here).
Non-stretch denim or equivalent (sewing yardages are on page two of the pattern)
Interfacing
All-purpose thread & topstitching thread*
Needles: denim (or heavy, sharp, universal); also double* and topstitch needles*
Tracing medium & tracing wheel
Paper & tape
Awl*
Buttonhole chisel*

* Optional; watch the first video for more information

– as well as your tuned-up sewing machine and manual, cutting equipment, pins, scissors, iron and ironing board!

For fabric, I’m using a fantastic canvas from The Hand and Eye Sewing Supply – a fairly new fabric shop that has some absolutely fantastic bottomweights!

I’ll be sewing on three machines: my domestic Pfaff, a White serger (for seam finishing), and my Pfaff 130 (for topstitching). If you don’t have three machines never fear – I will be going over how to make the jeans if you are only sewing with one machine; however, I highly recommend you borrow and set up a second machine for topstitching.

Our schedule! This sew-along begins 5 PM Pacific on Saturday the 20th, hosted simultaneously on my Bespoke Hogaboom Facebook page and my Twitch channel; they are then uploaded to my Vimeo channel if you miss out! And all dates are hosted on my Calendar (here’s a live link you can add to your own).

If you have questions about jean construction – please ask here in the blog post. If you have questions about your specific jean muslin and fitting – ask in the Rad Patterns Facebook group!

SAT 20: cutting & marking
TUE 23: interfacing, back and front pockets
WED 24: back yoke, inseams, outseams
THU 25: zip fly, waistband
FRI 26: belt carriers, button & buttonhole, & grommets

And finally! You have the opportunity to enter the giveaway below! Please read carefully to enter. If you like, you can subscribe to my sewing emails (about one per month).

You do not have to subscribe to my emails for the giveaway!

.
Free Range Slacks with Kelly Hogaboom & Bespoke Hogaboom (#gimmiesomeslack)

free range slacks sew-along!

by sew-a-longsewing journal
Free Range Slacks with Kelly Hogaboom & Bespoke Hogaboom (#gimmiesomeslack)

Update – our videos are uploaded, and you can watch them here:


Last month we led you through a button-up shirt – this month, we’re picking up the slack! Specifically, Sew House Seven’s Free Range Slacks, recently upgraded for a more inclusive size range!

Free Range Slacks with Kelly Hogaboom & Bespoke Hogaboom (#gimmiesomeslack)

This is a very exciting project – hosted by myself with a little help from Traci of Pryde Hantverk (@prydehantverk), a friend of mine I’ve known for over 25 years! I will also run an IG Live with Peggy Mead, the owner and operator of Sew House Seven (@sewhouse7)! As for the sewing sessions, these will be broadcasting on Facebook and Twitch, with a couple IG Live session recaps thrown in!

If you join us – make sure to tag your project with #gimmiesomeslack!

And we will walk you – step by step – in making these fabulous pants!

Free Range Slacks with Kelly Hogaboom & Bespoke Hogaboom (#gimmiesomeslack)

The Free Range Slacks feature a comfortable high waist with wide elastic, large pockets, either a wide or tapered leg, and the kind of exacting details I’ve come to adore from this pattern company. Sew House Seven’s patterns are like a mini-tailoring tutorial in and of themselves and they are a pattern line I recommend to committed beginners who want to learn some lovely seam finishes.

Size range as follows:

Regular Fit
Waist: 23 1/2″ – 39 1/2″
Hip: 34″ – 50″

Curvy Fit
Waist: 39 1/4″ – 57 1/4″
Hip: 49″ – 65″

For this sew-along you will need:

1. A tuned up machine that can sew a balanced zig zag, and your machine manual

2. Your pattern, notions, and materials (see below)

3. All thread, cutting and marking implements, et cetera

We start the project the 11th of August, but on the 1st I’ll host an IG Live to answer any questions (and you can post them here, too). All my livestreams are at 5 PM Pacific; all my sewing sessions will be broadcast on my Facebook page and my twitch (subscribe!).

Here is our schedule:

SAT 1: IG LIVE project introduction
MON 3: IG LIVE with Peggy of Sew House 7
TUE 11: cutting & marking
WED 12: front & back pockets
THU 13: side seams & inseam
FRI 14: rise, waistband, & hem
SUN 16: IG LIVE recap!

That’s a lot to remember; so please subscribe to my live calendar link if you want to get hooked in!

See you for #gimmiesomeslack!

curvy fit, tapered leg

Free Range Slacks with Kelly Hogaboom & Bespoke Hogaboom (#gimmiesomeslack), Curvy Fit

straight fit, wide leg

Free Range Slacks with Kelly Hogaboom & Bespoke Hogaboom (#gimmiesomeslack), Straight Fit
Free Range Slacks with Kelly Hogaboom & Bespoke Hogaboom (#gimmiesomeslack), Line Drawing

Materials Needed:
Pattern (I print mine at pdfplotting.com)
Bottomweight fabric as per pattern recommendations *
1 1/2″ elastic (your waist measurement + 1/2″) *
Thread: construction/all-purpose, and topstitching (optional)

Remember – your sewing machine needs its manual, you need to be able to sew a balanced zig zag, and you will need cutting and marking tools! In addition, you may find the following helpful:

Wax paper and wheel/tools for tracing and marking
A clapper (for flattening seams)
Bone folder (a vegan version, of course!)
Your super cool label – and yes, homemade is awesome!

Print, tape, and cut out your paper pattern. Pretreat your fabrics. Thread your machine.

And then we’ll see you on IG Live on the 1st – and on Bespoke Hogaboom (Facebook/Twitch) on the 11th! 

We’re looking forward to #gimmiesomeslack!

Finally, if you are serious about sewing – and you like my instruction – you might consider joining my lovely Discord community, and inclusive and body liberationist sewing group! (Incidentally, this is the best place to get FREE GRATIS sewing business advice, if that’s something you’re interested… or you think you might be).

* here is a great list of shops owned and operated by BIPOC and Allies!, as created by Jacinta Green of @blkmakersmatter!

OK! See on on the 1st!

Free Range Slacks with Kelly Hogaboom & Bespoke Hogaboom (#gimmiesomeslack)
#simonsayssew with Kelly Hogaboom and Julian Collins

#simonsayssew with kelly hogaboom & julian collins

by sew-a-longsewing journal
@kellyhogaboom on Instagram, Bespoke Hogaboom
Julian Collins of @juliancreates on IG

Update: all videos are live, and you can watch them here:


Last month we led you through a pair of jeans – this month, a button-up shirt! This is a fantastic and versatile project, carefully selected for both an inclusive gender expression and size range!

This is a very exciting project – hosted by myself alongside my friend Julian Collins out of Cincinnati. We are broadcasting on Facebook and Twitch, with a couple IG Live sessions thrown in! If you join us – make sure to tag your project with #simonsayssew!

And we will walk you – step by step – in making a menswear-stye button-up!

Chris Hemsworth, #simonsayssew

My project conspirator is Julian Collins (@juliancreates on IG), creator of the Sew “Manly” group on Facebook and charter member of the Black Makers Matter project on IG. Julian is an experienced hobbyist/semi-pro tailor and he’s a lot of fun!

For this sew-along you will need:

1. A tuned up machine that can sew a balanced zig zag, and your machine manual
2. Your pattern, notions, and materials (see below)
3. All thread, cutting and marking implements, et cetera

We are doing the bulk of our sewing mid July. All my livestreams are at 5 PM Pacific; all my sewing sessions will be broadcast on my Facebook page and my twitch (subscribe!). In addition, Julian and I will be going up on IGLive together to help you through (so – follow us, for heaven’s sake)!

And finally: don’t forget to join Julian’s Sew “Manly” group, where a lot of the action will be taking place!

Here is our calendar – all events are Pacific time, and all but one are 5 PM:

FRI 3: IG LIVE (talking about our project, mostly, and our supplies)
FRI 10: drafting the pattern 
MON 13: cutting and marking 
WED 15: cuffs and collar; yokes and darts
FRI 17: button placket & shoulder seams
SAT 18: IG LIVE (project check-in, 3 PM)
TUE 21: sleeve placket & armscye
WED 22: side seams, cuffs, & collar 
THU 23: hem, buttons, & buttonholes
FRI 24: IG LIVE recap!

That’s a lot to remember; so please subscribe to my live calendar link if you want to get hooked in!

Now – let’s talk a bit about a button-up shirt! You can click the images below to get to your pattern:

simon

Simon shirt, from Freesewing.org

simone

Simone shirt, from Freesewing.org

We want our livestream to help as many people as possible. And let me first say that no matter your body size and shape, this button up shirt will work for you!

The number one requirement is that you take accurate measurements, to upload to the FreeSewing.org site and draft your pattern. You will essentially be uploading a person to the site (my July client will be my husband), and then drafting the pattern to fit them.

The pattern will then use these body measurements, to draft a pattern to fit the individual you select. The Simon pattern uses 11 body measurements; the Simone 14. I will be demonstrating how to upload and draft the pattern on Friday the 10th, so join me on my page or my twitch if you’d like to watch me live!

Other helpful tips: if you are a beginner, or if you have not made a few button-ups for your intended wearer, I suggest you don’t make too many style adjustments – of the many that can be made – because you are less likely to make fitting errors and it will be easy to troubleshoot any problems.

Finally, if you are serious about sewing – and you like my instruction – you might consider joining my lovely Discord community, and inclusive and body liberationist sewing group! (Incidentally, this is the best place to get FREE GRATIS sewing business advice, if that’s something you’re interested… or you think you might be).

OK!

Materials Needed:
Pattern (I print mine at pdfplotting.com)
Shirting as per pattern recommendations *
Interfacing *
Buttons (I like a 5/8″)
Thread: construction/all-purpose, and topstitching (optional)

Remember – your sewing machine needs its manual, you need to be able to sew a balanced zig zag, and you will need cutting and marking tools! In addition, you may find the following helpful:

Wax paper and wheel/tools for tracing and marking
Bone folder (a vegan version, of course!)
A buttonhole chisel
Glue stick
Spray starch
Your super cool label/back patch – and yes, homemade is awesome!

Print, tape, and cut out your paper pattern. Pretreat your fabrics. Thread your machine.

And then we’ll see you on IG Live on the 3rd – and on Bespoke Hogaboom (Facebook/Twitch) on the 10th! 

We’re looking forward to #simonsayssew!

* here is a great list of shops owned and operated by BIPOC and Allies!

Simon shirt sew-along, Kelly Hogaboom / Bespoke Hogaboom
2020 06 BESPOKE HOGABOOM JEANS LIVESTREAM SEW-ALONG

come sew jeans with us!

by sew-a-longsewing journal
@kellyhogaboom on Instagram, Bespoke Hogaboom
@annesews pants on Instagram, Bespoke Hogaboom

Update: all videos are live, and you can watch them here:



There’s nothing more SUMMER than a new pair of jeans!

This is a very exciting project – hosted by myself alongside my friend Anne Hanna (tailor and slow-fashion guru!) from Ottawa. We are broadcasting on Facebook and Twitch, with a couple IG Live sessions thrown in!

Our goal is to walk you – step by step – in making a pair of custom jeans!

Bespoke Hogaboom jeans sew-along 06 2020

For this project you will need:

1. A tuned up machine that can sew a balanced zig zag, and your machine manual
2. Your pattern, notions, and materials (see below)
3. All thread, cutting and marking implements, et cetera

We are doing the bulk of our sewing the last full week in June. All our livestreams are at 5 PM Pacific Standard Time; all sewing sessions will be broadcast on my Facebook page and my twitch (subscribe!). In addition, Anne and I will be going up on IGLive together to help you through (so – follow us, for heaven’s sake)!

FRI 19: IG LIVE (talking about jeans, mostly, and our supplies)
MON 22: cutting, marking, interfacing
TUE 23: back pockets/yoke, front pockets
WED 24: break, no livestreaming
THU 25: fly, inseam/outseam
FRI 26: waistband, carriers, hem
SAT 27: rivets, buttonhole, button
MON 29: IG LIVE (project recap)

That’s a lot to remember; so please subscribe to my live calendar link if you want to get hooked in!

Now – let’s talk a bit about jeans!

So, we want our livestream to help as many people as possible. And let me first say that no matter your body size and gender identity/expression, jeans are constructed the same way – mostly! (There are always caveats!)

This means whether you like a low or high rise, baggy jeans or jeggings, boot cut or skinny fit or stovepipe – you can sew with us!

However! And this is a big however:

If you use a different pattern than ours, you may have to do a bit of homework to modify your pattern, so that you can work alongside us. At the end of this post, I will link to a handful of other jeans patterns* – courtesy of my lovely Discord server crew, who went scouting for us!

If you aren’t pretty adept at modifying patterns – just stick to the pattern we are using.

And what pattern is that? The Jalie stretch jean! This is a stretch jean in a bootleg, with a zip fly and either a low or medium rise. I selected this pattern for the following reasons:

1. A good size range for child/adult, with waist: 20″ to 44″ and hip 22″ – 53″
2. Jalie’s patterns are always well-drafted
3. Their instructions are great, and their illustrations are available to all

 

2020 06 BESPOKE HOGABOOM JEANS LIVESTREAM SEW-ALONG, Jalie pattern cover

Materials Needed:
Denim as per pattern recommendations)
Fine weave cotton (for pocket bag)
Interfacing (knit or rigid)
Thread: construction/all-purpose, and topstitching (optional)
Zipper (longer is OK; we’ll show you how to shorten a metal zipper)
Rivets (optional) & setting tool (or hammer)
Button

Remember – your sewing machine needs its manual, you need to be able to sew a balanced zig zag, and you will need cutting and marking tools! In addition, you may find the following helpful:

Wax paper and wheel/tools for tracing and marking
Bone folder (a vegan version, of course!)
Your super cool label/back patch – and yes, homemade is awesome!

Tape/grade, and cut out your paper pattern. Pretreat your fabrics. Thread your machine.

And then we’ll see you on IG Live on the 19th – and on Bespoke Hogaboom (Facebook/Twitch) on the 22nd!

***

Here are some alternative jeans/trousers to work with. Keep in mind you are responsible to do your homework and make any paper pattern adjustments, to follow along our Jalie-based methods! This means a bit more work for you – so keep that in mind!

Ames Jeans by Cashmerette
stretch
waist: 32″ – 43″
hip: 48″ – 59″

Bespoke Jean Pattern Bundle by DIBY Club
30% 2-way stretch
waist: 24″ – 59 3/4″
hip: 34″ – 67″

Fulford Jean by Thread Theory
non-stretch
waist: 26″ – 50″
hip: 35″ – 57″

Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans, Curve 
non-stretch
waist: 32″ – 42″
hip: 48″ – 58″

Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans, Regular
non-stretch
waist: 24″ – 34″
hip: 38″ – 48″

Phillipa Pants by Anna Allen
non-stretch
waist: 24″ – 41″
hip: 34″ – 51″

Quadra Jean by Thread Theory
stretch or non-stretch
waist: 26″ – 50″
hip: 35″ – 57″

2020 06 BESPOKE HOGABOOM JEANS LIVESTREAM SEW-ALONG