Sew with us – and swan into your December in a brand-new me-made frock!
the bespoke hogaboom SPOOK-ALONG!
Two *really* short and sweet and spooky(ish) projects – a witch hat, and a pair of goth lace socks!
your good t-shirt sew-along!
You don’t need a serger or expensive equipment to make the best t-shirt you’ve ever worn!
free range slacks sew-along!
Update – our videos are uploaded, and you can watch them here:
Last month we led you through a button-up shirt – this month, we’re picking up the slack! Specifically, Sew House Seven’s Free Range Slacks, recently upgraded for a more inclusive size range!
This is a very exciting project – hosted by myself with a little help from Traci of Pryde Hantverk (@prydehantverk), a friend of mine I’ve known for over 25 years! I will also run an IG Live with Peggy Mead, the owner and operator of Sew House Seven (@sewhouse7)! As for the sewing sessions, these will be broadcasting on Facebook and Twitch, with a couple IG Live session recaps thrown in!
If you join us – make sure to tag your project with #gimmiesomeslack!
And we will walk you – step by step – in making these fabulous pants!
The Free Range Slacks feature a comfortable high waist with wide elastic, large pockets, either a wide or tapered leg, and the kind of exacting details I’ve come to adore from this pattern company. Sew House Seven’s patterns are like a mini-tailoring tutorial in and of themselves and they are a pattern line I recommend to committed beginners who want to learn some lovely seam finishes.
Size range as follows:
Regular Fit
Waist: 23 1/2″ – 39 1/2″
Hip: 34″ – 50″
Curvy Fit
Waist: 39 1/4″ – 57 1/4″
Hip: 49″ – 65″
For this sew-along you will need:
1. A tuned up machine that can sew a balanced zig zag, and your machine manual
2. Your pattern, notions, and materials (see below)
3. All thread, cutting and marking implements, et cetera
We start the project the 11th of August, but on the 1st I’ll host an IG Live to answer any questions (and you can post them here, too). All my livestreams are at 5 PM Pacific; all my sewing sessions will be broadcast on my Facebook page and my twitch (subscribe!).
Here is our schedule:
SAT 1: IG LIVE project introduction
MON 3: IG LIVE with Peggy of Sew House 7
TUE 11: cutting & marking
WED 12: front & back pockets
THU 13: side seams & inseam
FRI 14: rise, waistband, & hem
SUN 16: IG LIVE recap!
That’s a lot to remember; so please subscribe to my live calendar link if you want to get hooked in!
See you for #gimmiesomeslack!
curvy fit, tapered leg
straight fit, wide leg
Materials Needed:
Pattern (I print mine at pdfplotting.com)
Bottomweight fabric as per pattern recommendations *
1 1/2″ elastic (your waist measurement + 1/2″) *
Thread: construction/all-purpose, and topstitching (optional)
Remember – your sewing machine needs its manual, you need to be able to sew a balanced zig zag, and you will need cutting and marking tools! In addition, you may find the following helpful:
Wax paper and wheel/tools for tracing and marking
A clapper (for flattening seams)
Bone folder (a vegan version, of course!)
Your super cool label – and yes, homemade is awesome!
Print, tape, and cut out your paper pattern. Pretreat your fabrics. Thread your machine.
And then we’ll see you on IG Live on the 1st – and on Bespoke Hogaboom (Facebook/Twitch) on the 11th!
We’re looking forward to #gimmiesomeslack!
Finally, if you are serious about sewing – and you like my instruction – you might consider joining my lovely Discord community, and inclusive and body liberationist sewing group! (Incidentally, this is the best place to get FREE GRATIS sewing business advice, if that’s something you’re interested… or you think you might be).
* here is a great list of shops owned and operated by BIPOC and Allies!, as created by Jacinta Green of @blkmakersmatter!
OK! See on on the 1st!
#simonsayssew with kelly hogaboom & julian collins
Update: all videos are live, and you can watch them here:
Last month we led you through a pair of jeans – this month, a button-up shirt! This is a fantastic and versatile project, carefully selected for both an inclusive gender expression and size range!
This is a very exciting project – hosted by myself alongside my friend Julian Collins out of Cincinnati. We are broadcasting on Facebook and Twitch, with a couple IG Live sessions thrown in! If you join us – make sure to tag your project with #simonsayssew!
And we will walk you – step by step – in making a menswear-stye button-up!
My project conspirator is Julian Collins (@juliancreates on IG), creator of the Sew “Manly” group on Facebook and charter member of the Black Makers Matter project on IG. Julian is an experienced hobbyist/semi-pro tailor and he’s a lot of fun!
For this sew-along you will need:
1. A tuned up machine that can sew a balanced zig zag, and your machine manual
2. Your pattern, notions, and materials (see below)
3. All thread, cutting and marking implements, et cetera
We are doing the bulk of our sewing mid July. All my livestreams are at 5 PM Pacific; all my sewing sessions will be broadcast on my Facebook page and my twitch (subscribe!). In addition, Julian and I will be going up on IGLive together to help you through (so – follow us, for heaven’s sake)!
And finally: don’t forget to join Julian’s Sew “Manly” group, where a lot of the action will be taking place!
Here is our calendar – all events are Pacific time, and all but one are 5 PM:
FRI 3: IG LIVE (talking about our project, mostly, and our supplies)
FRI 10: drafting the pattern
MON 13: cutting and marking
WED 15: cuffs and collar; yokes and darts
FRI 17: button placket & shoulder seams
SAT 18: IG LIVE (project check-in, 3 PM)
TUE 21: sleeve placket & armscye
WED 22: side seams, cuffs, & collar
THU 23: hem, buttons, & buttonholes
FRI 24: IG LIVE recap!
That’s a lot to remember; so please subscribe to my live calendar link if you want to get hooked in!
Now – let’s talk a bit about a button-up shirt! You can click the images below to get to your pattern:
simon
simone
We want our livestream to help as many people as possible. And let me first say that no matter your body size and shape, this button up shirt will work for you!
The number one requirement is that you take accurate measurements, to upload to the FreeSewing.org site and draft your pattern. You will essentially be uploading a person to the site (my July client will be my husband), and then drafting the pattern to fit them.
The pattern will then use these body measurements, to draft a pattern to fit the individual you select. The Simon pattern uses 11 body measurements; the Simone 14. I will be demonstrating how to upload and draft the pattern on Friday the 10th, so join me on my page or my twitch if you’d like to watch me live!
Other helpful tips: if you are a beginner, or if you have not made a few button-ups for your intended wearer, I suggest you don’t make too many style adjustments – of the many that can be made – because you are less likely to make fitting errors and it will be easy to troubleshoot any problems.
Finally, if you are serious about sewing – and you like my instruction – you might consider joining my lovely Discord community, and inclusive and body liberationist sewing group! (Incidentally, this is the best place to get FREE GRATIS sewing business advice, if that’s something you’re interested… or you think you might be).
OK!
Materials Needed:
Pattern (I print mine at pdfplotting.com)
Shirting as per pattern recommendations *
Interfacing *
Buttons (I like a 5/8″)
Thread: construction/all-purpose, and topstitching (optional)
Remember – your sewing machine needs its manual, you need to be able to sew a balanced zig zag, and you will need cutting and marking tools! In addition, you may find the following helpful:
Wax paper and wheel/tools for tracing and marking
Bone folder (a vegan version, of course!)
A buttonhole chisel
Glue stick
Spray starch
Your super cool label/back patch – and yes, homemade is awesome!
Print, tape, and cut out your paper pattern. Pretreat your fabrics. Thread your machine.
And then we’ll see you on IG Live on the 3rd – and on Bespoke Hogaboom (Facebook/Twitch) on the 10th!
We’re looking forward to #simonsayssew!
* here is a great list of shops owned and operated by BIPOC and Allies!
come sew jeans with us!
Update: all videos are live, and you can watch them here:
There’s nothing more SUMMER than a new pair of jeans!
This is a very exciting project – hosted by myself alongside my friend Anne Hanna (tailor and slow-fashion guru!) from Ottawa. We are broadcasting on Facebook and Twitch, with a couple IG Live sessions thrown in!
Our goal is to walk you – step by step – in making a pair of custom jeans!
For this project you will need:
1. A tuned up machine that can sew a balanced zig zag, and your machine manual
2. Your pattern, notions, and materials (see below)
3. All thread, cutting and marking implements, et cetera
We are doing the bulk of our sewing the last full week in June. All our livestreams are at 5 PM Pacific Standard Time; all sewing sessions will be broadcast on my Facebook page and my twitch (subscribe!). In addition, Anne and I will be going up on IGLive together to help you through (so – follow us, for heaven’s sake)!
FRI 19: IG LIVE (talking about jeans, mostly, and our supplies)
MON 22: cutting, marking, interfacing
TUE 23: back pockets/yoke, front pockets
WED 24: break, no livestreaming
THU 25: fly, inseam/outseam
FRI 26: waistband, carriers, hem
SAT 27: rivets, buttonhole, button
MON 29: IG LIVE (project recap)
That’s a lot to remember; so please subscribe to my live calendar link if you want to get hooked in!
Now – let’s talk a bit about jeans!
So, we want our livestream to help as many people as possible. And let me first say that no matter your body size and gender identity/expression, jeans are constructed the same way – mostly! (There are always caveats!)
This means whether you like a low or high rise, baggy jeans or jeggings, boot cut or skinny fit or stovepipe – you can sew with us!
However! And this is a big however:
If you use a different pattern than ours, you may have to do a bit of homework to modify your pattern, so that you can work alongside us. At the end of this post, I will link to a handful of other jeans patterns* – courtesy of my lovely Discord server crew, who went scouting for us!
If you aren’t pretty adept at modifying patterns – just stick to the pattern we are using.
And what pattern is that? The Jalie stretch jean! This is a stretch jean in a bootleg, with a zip fly and either a low or medium rise. I selected this pattern for the following reasons:
1. A good size range for child/adult, with waist: 20″ to 44″ and hip 22″ – 53″
2. Jalie’s patterns are always well-drafted
3. Their instructions are great, and their illustrations are available to all
Materials Needed:
Denim as per pattern recommendations)
Fine weave cotton (for pocket bag)
Interfacing (knit or rigid)
Thread: construction/all-purpose, and topstitching (optional)
Zipper (longer is OK; we’ll show you how to shorten a metal zipper)
Rivets (optional) & setting tool (or hammer)
Button
Remember – your sewing machine needs its manual, you need to be able to sew a balanced zig zag, and you will need cutting and marking tools! In addition, you may find the following helpful:
Wax paper and wheel/tools for tracing and marking
Bone folder (a vegan version, of course!)
Your super cool label/back patch – and yes, homemade is awesome!
Tape/grade, and cut out your paper pattern. Pretreat your fabrics. Thread your machine.
And then we’ll see you on IG Live on the 19th – and on Bespoke Hogaboom (Facebook/Twitch) on the 22nd!
***
Here are some alternative jeans/trousers to work with. Keep in mind you are responsible to do your homework and make any paper pattern adjustments, to follow along our Jalie-based methods! This means a bit more work for you – so keep that in mind!
Ames Jeans by Cashmerette
stretch
waist: 32″ – 43″
hip: 48″ – 59″
Bespoke Jean Pattern Bundle by DIBY Club
30% 2-way stretch
waist: 24″ – 59 3/4″
hip: 34″ – 67″
Fulford Jean by Thread Theory
non-stretch
waist: 26″ – 50″
hip: 35″ – 57″
Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans, Curve
non-stretch
waist: 32″ – 42″
hip: 48″ – 58″
Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans, Regular
non-stretch
waist: 24″ – 34″
hip: 38″ – 48″
Phillipa Pants by Anna Allen
non-stretch
waist: 24″ – 41″
hip: 34″ – 51″
Quadra Jean by Thread Theory
stretch or non-stretch
waist: 26″ – 50″
hip: 35″ – 57″
seams legit: jeans
Update: this sew-along is finished, and all videos are linked at the bottom of the post!
Well, we did it.
We hosted twelve months of sewing goodness!
I have enjoyed, so very much, designing these classes and livestreaming with you all.
This month, we made a pair of jeans! In my videos (four in total) I will start with a bit of fitting advice – and a bit of conversation about all the different parts of the jeans.
I’m using a pattern I drafted myself, for a friend – however, all jeans should have some version of the following pieces – design features you should become acquainted with. These are explained in my first video.
You can sign up for these livestream videos on Facebook, if you want a reminder and updates!
A reminder that for all sew-alongs in my Seams Legit series you need:
1. a machine with its manual; the machine needs to be tuned-up and sewing a balanced zig-zag
2. the supplies listed in the pattern, as well as a thorough read-through of the pattern you use
This project will take place in installments (edit: these are linked at the bottom of this post).
So here’s what you need to do:
1. read through this post, & purchase your pattern & supplies
2. pre-treat your fabrics
3. sew with us live in December (on my FB page or my Twitch stream)!
Update: here are all four videos:
[ video 1: cutting and marking ] [ video 2: pockets, front and back ] [ video 3: front fly & side seams ] [ video 4: waistband, carriers, and finishing ]
SUPPLIES:
Rotary cutter and mat; marking tools & tracing medium
Sewing machine with balanced zig zag; sewing machine manual
To make jeans you will need:
your pattern
your denim, pocket fabric & – optional – extra fabric for a muslin
construction thread & topstitching thread
zipper and button
sewing machine needles (jeans, sharp, or universal; topstitching if you use a heavy thread)
Optional materials
sticky, washaway stabilizer (for buttonhole)
fusible web (for belt carriers)
awl (for button installation)
Happy new year, peeps! See you on the flip side.
seams legit: dress shirt
I cannot believe this is the penultimate post in this series! I have enjoyed, so very much, designing these classes and livestreaming with you all.
This month, we are making a simple button-up shirt – sometimes called a “dress shirt”. In truth, you can make this garment as casual or as elegant as you like depending on your fabrics and techniques. In this case, our dress shirt has the following:
1. a front placket with buttons and buttonholes
2. a collar and separate stand
3. a long, cuffed sleeve
4. a curved hem
5. a back yoke
The pattern we are using is from Lekala and is named “Shirt – Sewing Pattern #6026” – and it’ s free! Even though the pattern is labeled as “men’s”, in truth it’s simply a boxy-fit shirt that will work on most bodies. If you want something more form-fitting and you have a full bust and/or full hip, you can look for a women’s shirt pattern with darts or princess seams.
The cuff included is a placket cuff, but due to my client’s request I will be making a simple cuff (without an attendant sleeve placket).
Lekala patterns are a bit unique. The pattern is not a multi-size pattern, but is generated according to your measurements. You will need to measure your height, bust/chest, low hip, shoulder width, and center back length to hem. In addition, you will need to put in an indicator for belly protuberance. The site itself has helpful photos of how to take these measurements – just note that there is an error in the center back length to hem diagram. The diagram should show the vertical measurement extending from the neck to the hem of the shirt (not the waist).
Bootstrap patterns can take some getting used to. In a tutorial for their dress form (which is fantastic!), I go into more detail as to how to use their interface. Please post any questions you have below!
One more note on this specific pattern. You can finish the shirt with snaps or buttonholes; I will be demonstrating using my old Singer buttonholer. However, you can use whatever buttonhole attachment your machine has to offer. You can also create a buttonhole with a simple zig zag – here’s a great tutorial.
No matter what kind of buttonhole you are creating, you are expected to practice and to make a couple samples!
A reminder that for all sew-alongs in my Seams Legit series you need:
1. a machine with its manual; the machine needs to be tuned-up and sewing a balanced zig-zag
2. the supplies listed in the pattern, as well as a thorough read-through of the pattern you use
This project will take place in installments (edit: these are linked at the bottom of this post).
SUPPLIES:
Rotary cutter and mat; marking tools & tracing medium
Sewing machine with balanced zig zag; sewing machine manual
Thread and machine needle: universal or sharp
Shirting fabric such as cotton, flannel, or light linen
Buttons & buttonholer &/or buttonhole practice
Non-stretch interfacing (optional)
So here’s what you need to do:
1. read through this post, & purchase your pattern & supplies
2. pre-treat your fabrics
3. sew with us live in November (on my FB page or my Twitch stream)!
Update!
We are all finished and the shirt is lovely!
View this post on Instagram
Here are the videos detailing my process, in order:
[ video 1 ][ video 2 ][ video 3 ]Lk
seams legit: anorak
OK so – last month, we made up our trousers. I almost perished here and there, but we got through it – with great results, to be honest!
So listen – this month we’re amping things up before our break for Halloween sewing in October. We are making an anorak – a loose-fitting, raglan coat featuring lots of pockets, sleeve tabs, a detachable hood – and a full lining!
It’s going to be legit!
The pattern we are using for this sew-along is the Andie pattern by Rebecca Page. There are two versions of the pattern: a child’s and a women’s (you can also buy both in the bundle). You can see plenty of great tester photos in the Facebook album!
Child’s:
Chest: 16 1/2″ to 30″
Women’s
Bust: 30″ – 54″
Hip: 33″ – 57″
A reminder that for all sew-alongs in my Seams Legit series you need:
1. a machine with its manual; the machine needs to be tuned-up and sewing a balanced zig-zag
2. the supplies listed in the pattern, as well as a thorough read-through of the pattern you use
This sew-along will take place in installments:
1. September 25, 2019: cutting, interfacing, & marking [ video here ]2. September 26, 2019: back, loops, and straps [ video here ]3. September 27, 2019: coat construction [ video here ]4. September , 2019: finishing and hood [ video here ]
SUPPLIES:
Rotary cutter and mat; marking tools & tracing medium
Sewing machine with balanced zig zag; sewing machine manual
Andie pattern (children’s, women’s, or bundle)
Thread and machine needle: universal or sharp
Bottomweight fabric such as linen, suiting, twill, or cotton
Lining fabric
Snaps or buttons
Sliders (optional)
Drawstring (for optional hood)
Eyelets (for optional hood)
Non-stretch interfacing (1 yard)
So here’s what you need to do:
1. read through this post, & purchase your pattern & supplies
2. pre-treat your fabrics
3. sew with us live in September (on my FB page or my Twitch stream)!
Start here, with video 1:
“seams legit” sewing lesson: trousers!
Hello and – how are you faring in the heat (Northern Hemisphere peeps)? We had a great time last month sewing a hoodie. This month we are making trousers!
So listen – this sew-along separates the wheat from the chaff. The women from the girls. The homies from the squares! It isn’t so much that this project is difficult, it is just rather detail-oriented! The good news is, we will gain experience in some great techniques: a lapped zip fly, faced front pockets, welt back pockets, and a waistband with belt loops.
C’mon – it’ll be fun!
The pattern we are using for the sew-along is the Chinos pattern from Wardrobe by Me. This is a men’s cut pattern with the following size range:
Men’s:
waist: 32″ to 41″
hip: 35″ to 44″
And for the month of August, pattern designer Christina has offered a discount code for $2 off the pattern; just use Chino19 in checkout!
You can sign up for this livestream videos on Facebook, if you want a reminder and updates!
A reminder that for all sew-alongs in my Seams Legit series you need:
1. a machine with its manual; the machine needs to be tuned-up and sewing a balanced zig-zag
2. the supplies listed in the pattern, as well as a thorough read-through of the pattern you use
This sew-along will take place in three installments:
1. August 2nd, 2019: cutting, interfacing, & marking [ video here ]2. August 16th*, 2019: front and back pockets, plus zip fly [ video here ]3. August 30th, 2019: pant construction & finishing [ video here ]
SUPPLIES:
Rotary cutter and mat; marking tools & tracing medium
Sewing machine with balanced zig zag; sewing machine manual
Thread and machine needle: universal or sharp
Bottomweight fabric such as linen, suiting, twill, or cotton
Pocket lining fabric, preferably cotton
Button
Zipper
Non-stretch interfacing (1 yard)
So here’s what you need to do:
1. read through this post, & purchase your pattern & supplies
2. pre-treat your fabrics
3. sew with us live on the 2nd, 16th*, and 30th (on my FB page or my Twitch stream)!
Start here, with video 1:
* In the second video, during the back welt pockets, I have a bit of a struggle. This is due to a discrepancy in the pattern, where it refers to the RS/WS of the pockets. If, like me, you are using a printed fabric and want the print to show when the pants are inside out, you will be attaching the facings (for front pockets and back pockets) to the unprinted side. I apologize for my muddle in the video!