sew-a-long – Page 2 – kelly hogaboom

2020 06 BESPOKE HOGABOOM JEANS LIVESTREAM SEW-ALONG

come sew jeans with us!

June 9, 2020

by kellyhogaboom sew-a-long sewing journal

Update: all videos are live, and you can watch them here:

There’s nothing more SUMMER than a new pair of jeans!

This is a very exciting project – hosted by myself alongside my friend Anne Hanna (tailor and slow-fashion guru!) from Ottawa. We are broadcasting on Facebook and Twitch, with a couple IG Live sessions thrown in!

Our goal is to walk you – step by step – in making a pair of custom jeans!

For this project you will need:

1. A tuned up machine that can sew a balanced zig zag, and your machine manual
2. Your pattern, notions, and materials (see below)
3. All thread, cutting and marking implements, et cetera

We are doing the bulk of our sewing the last full week in June. All our livestreams are at 5 PM Pacific Standard Time; all sewing sessions will be broadcast on my Facebook page and my twitch (subscribe!). In addition, Anne and I will be going up on IGLive together to help you through (so – follow us, for heaven’s sake)!

FRI 19: IG LIVE (talking about jeans, mostly, and our supplies)
MON 22: cutting, marking, interfacing
TUE 23: back pockets/yoke, front pockets
WED 24: break, no livestreaming
THU 25: fly, inseam/outseam
FRI 26: waistband, carriers, hem
SAT 27: rivets, buttonhole, button
MON 29: IG LIVE (project recap)

That’s a lot to remember; so please subscribe to my live calendar link if you want to get hooked in!

Now – let’s talk a bit about jeans!

So, we want our livestream to help as many people as possible. And let me first say that no matter your body size and gender identity/expression, jeans are constructed the same way – mostly! (There are always caveats!)

This means whether you like a low or high rise, baggy jeans or jeggings, boot cut or skinny fit or stovepipe – you can sew with us!

However! And this is a big however:

If you use a different pattern than ours, you may have to do a bit of homework to modify your pattern, so that you can work alongside us. At the end of this post, I will link to a handful of other jeans patterns* – courtesy of my lovely Discord server crew, who went scouting for us!

If you aren’t pretty adept at modifying patterns – just stick to the pattern we are using.

And what pattern is that? The Jalie stretch jean! This is a stretch jean in a bootleg, with a zip fly and either a low or medium rise. I selected this pattern for the following reasons:

1. A good size range for child/adult, with waist: 20″ to 44″ and hip 22″ – 53″
2. Jalie’s patterns are always well-drafted
3. Their instructions are great, and their illustrations are available to all

Materials Needed:
Denim as per pattern recommendations)
Fine weave cotton (for pocket bag)
Interfacing (knit or rigid)
Thread: construction/all-purpose, and topstitching (optional)
Zipper (longer is OK; we’ll show you how to shorten a metal zipper)
Rivets (optional) & setting tool (or hammer)
Button

Remember – your sewing machine needs its manual, you need to be able to sew a balanced zig zag, and you will need cutting and marking tools! In addition, you may find the following helpful:

Wax paper and wheel/tools for tracing and marking
Bone folder (a vegan version, of course!)
Your super cool label/back patch – and yes, homemade is awesome!

Tape/grade, and cut out your paper pattern. Pretreat your fabrics. Thread your machine.

And then we’ll see you on IG Live on the 19th – and on Bespoke Hogaboom (Facebook/Twitch) on the 22nd!

***

Here are some alternative jeans/trousers to work with. Keep in mind you are responsible to do your homework and make any paper pattern adjustments, to follow along our Jalie-based methods! This means a bit more work for you – so keep that in mind!

Ames Jeans by Cashmerette
stretch
waist: 32″ – 43″
hip: 48″ – 59″

Bespoke Jean Pattern Bundle by DIBY Club
30% 2-way stretch
waist: 24″ – 59 3/4″
hip: 34″ – 67″

Fulford Jean by Thread Theory
non-stretch
waist: 26″ – 50″
hip: 35″ – 57″

Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans, Curve
non-stretch
waist: 32″ – 42″
hip: 48″ – 58″

Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans, Regular
non-stretch
waist: 24″ – 34″
hip: 38″ – 48″

Phillipa Pants by Anna Allen
non-stretch
waist: 24″ – 41″
hip: 34″ – 51″

Quadra Jean by Thread Theory
stretch or non-stretch
waist: 26″ – 50″
hip: 35″ – 57″

seams legit: jeans

December 1, 2019

by kellyhogaboom sew-a-long sewing journal

Update: this sew-along is finished, and all videos are linked at the bottom of the post!

Well, we did it.

We hosted twelve months of sewing goodness!

I have enjoyed, so very much, designing these classes and livestreaming with you all.

This month, we made a pair of jeans! In my videos (four in total) I will start with a bit of fitting advice – and a bit of conversation about all the different parts of the jeans.

I’m using a pattern I drafted myself, for a friend – however, all jeans should have some version of the following pieces – design features you should become acquainted with. These are explained in my first video.

You can sign up for these livestream videos on Facebook, if you want a reminder and updates!

A reminder that for all sew-alongs in my Seams Legit series you need:

1. a machine with its manual; the machine needs to be tuned-up and sewing a balanced zig-zag

2. the supplies listed in the pattern, as well as a thorough read-through of the pattern you use

This project will take place in installments (edit: these are linked at the bottom of this post).

So here’s what you need to do:

1. read through this post, & purchase your pattern & supplies

2. pre-treat your fabrics

3. sew with us live in December (on my FB page or my Twitch stream)!

Update: here are all four videos:

[ video 1: cutting and marking ] [ video 2: pockets, front and back ] [ video 3: front fly & side seams ] [ video 4: waistband, carriers, and finishing ]

SUPPLIES:

Rotary cutter and mat; marking tools & tracing medium

Sewing machine with balanced zig zag; sewing machine manual

To make jeans you will need:

your pattern

your denim, pocket fabric & – optional – extra fabric for a muslin

construction thread & topstitching thread

zipper and button

sewing machine needles (jeans, sharp, or universal; topstitching if you use a heavy thread)

Optional materials

sticky, washaway stabilizer (for buttonhole)

fusible web (for belt carriers)

awl (for button installation)

Happy new year, peeps! See you on the flip side.

seams legit: dress shirt

November 1, 2019

by kellyhogaboom sew-a-long sewing journal

I cannot believe this is the penultimate post in this series! I have enjoyed, so very much, designing these classes and livestreaming with you all.

This month, we are making a simple button-up shirt – sometimes called a “dress shirt”. In truth, you can make this garment as casual or as elegant as you like depending on your fabrics and techniques. In this case, our dress shirt has the following:

1. a front placket with buttons and buttonholes
2. a collar and separate stand
3. a long, cuffed sleeve
4. a curved hem
5. a back yoke

The pattern we are using is from Lekala and is named “Shirt – Sewing Pattern #6026” – and it’ s free! Even though the pattern is labeled as “men’s”, in truth it’s simply a boxy-fit shirt that will work on most bodies. If you want something more form-fitting and you have a full bust and/or full hip, you can look for a women’s shirt pattern with darts or princess seams.

The cuff included is a placket cuff, but due to my client’s request I will be making a simple cuff (without an attendant sleeve placket).

Lekala patterns are a bit unique. The pattern is not a multi-size pattern, but is generated according to your measurements. You will need to measure your height, bust/chest, low hip, shoulder width, and center back length to hem. In addition, you will need to put in an indicator for belly protuberance. The site itself has helpful photos of how to take these measurements – just note that there is an error in the center back length to hem diagram. The diagram should show the vertical measurement extending from the neck to the hem of the shirt (not the waist).

Bootstrap patterns can take some getting used to. In a tutorial for their dress form (which is fantastic!), I go into more detail as to how to use their interface. Please post any questions you have below!

One more note on this specific pattern. You can finish the shirt with snaps or buttonholes; I will be demonstrating using my old Singer buttonholer. However, you can use whatever buttonhole attachment your machine has to offer. You can also create a buttonhole with a simple zig zag – here’s a great tutorial.

No matter what kind of buttonhole you are creating, you are expected to practice and to make a couple samples!

A reminder that for all sew-alongs in my Seams Legit series you need:

1. a machine with its manual; the machine needs to be tuned-up and sewing a balanced zig-zag

2. the supplies listed in the pattern, as well as a thorough read-through of the pattern you use

This project will take place in installments (edit: these are linked at the bottom of this post).

SUPPLIES:

Rotary cutter and mat; marking tools & tracing medium

Sewing machine with balanced zig zag; sewing machine manual

The pattern

Thread and machine needle: universal or sharp

Shirting fabric such as cotton, flannel, or light linen

Buttons & buttonholer &/or buttonhole practice

Non-stretch interfacing (optional)

So here’s what you need to do:

1. read through this post, & purchase your pattern & supplies

2. pre-treat your fabrics

3. sew with us live in November (on my FB page or my Twitch stream)!

Update!

We are all finished and the shirt is lovely!

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Bespoke Hogaboom (@kellyhogaboom) on Nov 30, 2019 at 4:27pm PST

Here are the videos detailing my process, in order:

[ video 1 ][ video 2 ][ video 3 ]

seams legit: anorak

September 1, 2019

by kellyhogaboom sew-a-long sewing journal

OK so – last month, we made up our trousers. I almost perished here and there, but we got through it – with great results, to be honest!

So listen – this month we’re amping things up before our break for Halloween sewing in October. We are making an anorak – a loose-fitting, raglan coat featuring lots of pockets, sleeve tabs, a detachable hood – and a full lining!

It’s going to be legit!

The pattern we are using for this sew-along is the Andie pattern by Rebecca Page. There are two versions of the pattern: a child’s and a women’s (you can also buy both in the bundle). You can see plenty of great tester photos in the Facebook album!

Child’s:
Chest: 16 1/2″ to 30″

Women’s
Bust: 30″ – 54″
Hip: 33″ – 57″

A reminder that for all sew-alongs in my Seams Legit series you need:

1. a machine with its manual; the machine needs to be tuned-up and sewing a balanced zig-zag

2. the supplies listed in the pattern, as well as a thorough read-through of the pattern you use

This sew-along will take place in installments:

1. September 25, 2019: cutting, interfacing, & marking [ video here ]2. September 26, 2019: back, loops, and straps [ video here ]3. September 27, 2019: coat construction [ video here ]4. September , 2019: finishing and hood [ video here ]

SUPPLIES:

Rotary cutter and mat; marking tools & tracing medium

Sewing machine with balanced zig zag; sewing machine manual

Andie pattern (children’s, women’s, or bundle)

Thread and machine needle: universal or sharp

Bottomweight fabric such as linen, suiting, twill, or cotton

Lining fabric

Snaps or buttons

Sliders (optional)

Drawstring (for optional hood)

Eyelets (for optional hood)

Non-stretch interfacing (1 yard)

So here’s what you need to do:

1. read through this post, & purchase your pattern & supplies

2. pre-treat your fabrics

3. sew with us live in September (on my FB page or my Twitch stream)!

Start here, with video 1:

“seams legit” sewing lesson: trousers!

August 1, 2019

by kellyhogaboom sew-a-long sewing journal

Hello and – how are you faring in the heat (Northern Hemisphere peeps)? We had a great time last month sewing a hoodie. This month we are making trousers!

So listen – this sew-along separates the wheat from the chaff. The women from the girls. The homies from the squares! It isn’t so much that this project is difficult, it is just rather detail-oriented! The good news is, we will gain experience in some great techniques: a lapped zip fly, faced front pockets, welt back pockets, and a waistband with belt loops.

C’mon – it’ll be fun!

The pattern we are using for the sew-along is the Chinos pattern from Wardrobe by Me. This is a men’s cut pattern with the following size range:

Men’s:
waist: 32″ to 41″
hip: 35″ to 44″

And for the month of August, pattern designer Christina has offered a discount code for $2 off the pattern; just use Chino19 in checkout!

You can sign up for this livestream videos on Facebook, if you want a reminder and updates!

A reminder that for all sew-alongs in my Seams Legit series you need:

1. a machine with its manual; the machine needs to be tuned-up and sewing a balanced zig-zag

2. the supplies listed in the pattern, as well as a thorough read-through of the pattern you use

This sew-along will take place in three installments:

1. August 2nd, 2019: cutting, interfacing, & marking [ video here ]2. August 16th*, 2019: front and back pockets, plus zip fly [ video here ]3. August 30th, 2019: pant construction & finishing [ video here ]

SUPPLIES:

Rotary cutter and mat; marking tools & tracing medium

Sewing machine with balanced zig zag; sewing machine manual

Chinos pattern

Thread and machine needle: universal or sharp

Bottomweight fabric such as linen, suiting, twill, or cotton

Pocket lining fabric, preferably cotton

Button

Zipper

Non-stretch interfacing (1 yard)

So here’s what you need to do:

1. read through this post, & purchase your pattern & supplies

2. pre-treat your fabrics

3. sew with us live on the 2nd, 16th*, and 30th (on my FB page or my Twitch stream)!

Start here, with video 1:

* In the second video, during the back welt pockets, I have a bit of a struggle. This is due to a discrepancy in the pattern, where it refers to the RS/WS of the pockets. If, like me, you are using a printed fabric and want the print to show when the pants are inside out, you will be attaching the facings (for front pockets and back pockets) to the unprinted side. I apologize for my muddle in the video!

“seams legit” sewing lesson: a hoodie!

July 1, 2019

by kellyhogaboom sew-a-long sewing journal

Update: both videos are up (#1 and #2)! They are linked at the bottom of this post.

It’s July – already! We had a great time last month sewing up a sundress. This month we are making a zip hoodie! I know, I know – for those of you in the Northern Hemisphere it might be hot as balls outside. But the thing is, this means it’s also evening bonfire weather – and believe it or not, fall isn’t that far off.

You can sign up for this livestream event on Facebook, if you want a reminder and updates!

A reminder that for all sew-alongs in my Seams Legit series you need:

1. a machine with its manual; the machine needs to be tuned-up and sewing a balanced zig-zag

2. the supplies listed in the pattern, as well as a thorough read-through of the pattern you use

I demonstrate all my cutting with rotary and mat. You will need your fabrics pre-washed, and your fabric pieces cut by Friday the 26th at noon PST. I will demonstrate the homework/fabric prep, in a video at the bottom of this post.

SUPPLIES:

Rotary cutter and mat

Sewing machine with balanced zig zag; sewing machine manual

pattern (children’s, women’s, men’s, or a bundle!)

Thread and machine needle: universal or ballpoint

stable 2-way stretch knit (35% stretch)

drawstring fabric & contrast fabric for drawstring eyelet

separating zipper

non-stretch interfacing (1/8 yard)

As I mentioned at the beginning of the year, each project gets successively more complex. This hoodie – especially as it’s sewn in a stable knit – isn’t difficult at all – just a few steps. And the absolutely gorgeous details – like the little welt pockets? – are going to make you feel like a rock star when you’re finished!

So here’s what you need to do:

1. read through this post & purchase your pattern & supplies;

2. pre-treat your fabrics & cut your pieces

3. sew with us live on the 26th (on my FB page or my Twitch stream)!

Children’s:
chest: 19 3/4″ to 32″
hip: 20 1/4″ to 33 1/2″

Women’s:
chest: 29″ to 51 1/2″
hip: 31″ to 53 1/2″

Men’s:
chest: 33″ to 56″
hip: 33″ to 56″

So if you look below – for an individual with a chest of 40″, waist of 37″, and hip of 42″, you will see this individual falls within the Medium size. This is the size I will print and cut.

Once you’ve determined the size you need, you will be cutting out your paper pattern and your fabrics. Below, I’ve attached both videos in the series. By the end of the first video you will have all your fabrics and interfacing strips cut out. By the end of the second, your hoodie will be completed.

[ video 1 ][ video 2 ]

Two notes:

In the first video, I only cut out two pocket pieces; you should cut out four.

In the second video, I baste-fit the front of the hoodie for the zipper insertion, then I abandoned this method to pin instead. The zipper insertion is the most difficult part of the hoodie. When you get to my baste-fitting adventure, ignore that part of the lesson. Relax and have a sip of tea, or read ahead, or tidy your sewing space.

Any questions? Feel free to ask them in the comments below.

“seams legit” sewing lesson: a sundress!

June 1, 2019

by kellyhogaboom sew-a-long sewing journal

Update: all three of our videos are uploaded! You can follow along here:

[Video 1]
[Video 2]
[Video 3]

"Seams Legit" June 2019: sewing a sundress!

It’s June, it’s heating up, and the studio is staying cool! We had a lovely time sewing up a t-shirt in June; this month we are stepping up and making ourselves a light sundress!

A reminder that for all sew-alongs in my Seams Legit series you need:

1. a machine with its manual; the machine needs to be tuned-up and sewing a balanced zig-zag

2. the supplies listed in the pattern, as well as a thorough read-through of the pattern you use

I demonstrate all my cutting with rotary and mat. You will need your fabrics pre-washed, and your fabric pieces cut by Friday the 28th at noon PST. In addition, you will want to do your homework: prepping your paper pattern pieces, pre-treating and cutting out your fabrics. I will demonstrate how to do this at the end of this post.

So! Let’s talk about this month’s project!

SUPPLIES:

Rotary cutter and mat

Sewing machine with balanced zig zag; sewing machine manual

Pattern

Thread and machine needle: universal or sharp

light woven fabric (lawn, voile, batiste or gauze)

Invisible zipper

Non-stretch interfacing (1/8 yard)

As I mentioned at the beginning of the year, each project gets successively more complex. For this sundress, you will need to do the following:

1. read through this post, & purchase your pattern & supplies;

2. create facings, pre-treat fabrics & cut your pieces (video here);

3. sew with us live on the 28th (on my FB page or my Twitch stream):

[Video 2]
[Video 3]

For our pattern, we will be using a simple sleeveless dress pattern by Bootstrap fashion, featuring double box pleats at the skirt waist and very pretty chevron pleats in the fitted bodice. You can find the pattern here.

Like all Bootstrap, Tailornova, and Lekala patterns, you get to insert your own measurements and body proportions. This pattern therefore has a large size range:

waist: 17″ to 67″
hip: 17″ to 68″

We will be making a few changes: creating our own facings, adding pockets, and inserting a center back invisible zipper (instead of a side zip).

You can either buy extra yardage, or print and cut the pattern out to determine your yardage (make sure you account for the facings we will be adding).

For this pattern, you first need to create your Bootstrap account if you haven’t already (I have a walk-through on this previous post). Then, you need to find the pattern, and take the following measurements to enter into the pattern generator:

Height
Bust
Underbust
Waist
Upper arm
Low hip
Belly protuberance

Each of these measurements has a little red asterisk (*) next to the input window, so you can see a helpful diagram of exactly how to take the measurement.

You may notice there are other measurements you can take; like the “Hips + Belly (Optional)”. Ignore these for now. Do make sure to select your seam allowance, and the PRINT option at 36″, to send to a copy shop (I use pdfplotting.com).

If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask them!

Please take your time making sure you have the exact measurements you need, and they are entered correctly. Make sure also, you have seam allowance selected and the correct PRINT format (36″).

This project takes more time to set up, than to actually sew. So do yourself a favor and get your pattern printed soon, calculate the yardage needed, buy your fabrics and notions, create your facings, and prepare for our sewing date on the 28th!

I am always available here or through email. Any questions? Comment below!

“seams legit” sewing lesson: a t-shirt!

May 1, 2019

by kellyhogaboom sew-a-long sewing journal

Update: the livestream video is here on Facebook.

It’s May (yay!), it’s sunny (wow!), and the spring spiders are visiting me in my studio (yikes)! We had a lovely time sewing up pyjama pants in April; this month we are stepping into another simple project in a knit fabric: a t-shirt!

A reminder that for all sew-alongs in my Seams Legit series you need:

1. a machine with its manual; the machine needs to be tuned-up and sewing a balanced zig-zag

2. the supplies listed in the pattern, as well as a thorough read-through of the pattern you use.

I demonstrate all my cutting with rotary and mat. You will need your fabrics pre-washed and your paper pattern printed and cut, by Friday the 31st at noon PST.

So! Let’s talk about this month’s project!

There are many types of t-shirts out there; the one I’ve selected is about as simple as can be. This is Ellie & Mac’s “Everyday Tee”, and it features dolman sleeves (therefore no shoulder seam), a scoop neck, and a curvy shape (fuller in the bust and hip). Ellie & Mac has been so gracious as to offer us a 50% off coupon; simply enter the code Seamslegit to receive!

For our class I will be sewing on my domestic Pfaff, and finishing seams with a 3-thread serge; that said, I will also demonstrate how to construct the garment using a sewing machine only.

Kelly Hogaboom, T-shirt Livestream (Everyday Tee by Ellie & Mac)

Size range:

waist: 29″ to 60″
hip: 33 1/2″ to 63″

My advice is that you acquire the pattern, print the instructions off, pour a cup of coffee or tea, and read through it.

SUPPLIES:

Rotary cutter and mat

Sewing machine with balanced zig zag; sewing machine manual

Thread and machine needle: universal, ballpoint, or jersey

knit fabric with 50% 4-way stretch

The exact quantities of each material are detailed in your pattern, which is why it is important to read through the instructions before purchasing supplies. The Ellie & Mac pattern I chose is very beginner-friendly in that it goes through everything you could possibly want to know, before starting! The downside is that this can be a bit overwhelming for a beginner, so really take the time to read it through. If you have any questions, you can write them below.

Most people will sew this top up with a cotton lycra, or a bamboo, modal, or rayon lycra. Both options are wonderful; I personally love bamboo, and I further think that Nature’s Fabrics’ bamboo spandex jersey cannot be improved upon.

This is a simple and fast sew, but it’s a pretty fantastic one. Tweaking a t-shirt pattern to our exact favorite fit, is both a joy and an obsession of mine!

I am always available here or through email. Any questions? Comment below!

“seams legit” sewing lesson: pyjama pants!

April 1, 2019

by kellyhogaboom sew-a-long sewing journal

It’s April, and spring is well underway here in the Pacific Northwest! We had a lovely time sewing a bralette in March; and this month we are stepping into woven fabrics (literally) by creating a simple pair of pyjama pants with pockets!

Let’s talk about this month’s project!

Whether or not we know it at the time, most of us first start our sewing exploits with woven fabrics. They are stable, they are more generally available (many of us small-town stitchers get our start by using the quilting cottons from local shops) and for a variety of reasons they are used in more beginner projects and classes.

This has been changing of late, though. With the advent of more independent sewing pattern designers we are seeing far more patterns designed for knit fabrics. This has led to a larger baseline knowledge of knit-sewing in the DIY community, as well as many knit custom fabric suppliers – a wonderful change indeed!

“seams legit” sewing lesson: a bralette!

March 1, 2019

by kellyhogaboom sew-a-long sewing journal

It’s March – already! We had a lovely time sewing briefs last month; this month we continue our lingerie efforts by making a bralette.

A reminder that for all sew-alongs you need:

1. a machine with it’s manual, tuned-up, that can sew a balanced zig-zag
2. the supplies listed in the pattern, as well as a thorough read-through of the pattern you use

From here on out we will be cutting with a rotary cutter and mat. March 15th I will also list some preparation work we can do for the bralette sew-along, to make sure our livestream class goes smoothly!

So! Let’s talk about this month’s project!

SUPPLIES:

SUPPLIES:

SUPPLIES:

SUPPLIES:

SUPPLIES:

SUPPLIES: Rotary cutter and mat Sewing machine with balanced zig zag; sewing machine manual Pattern Thread and machine needle: universal or sharp light woven fabric (lawn, voile, batiste or gauze) Invisible zipper Non-stretch interfacing (1/8 yard)

SUPPLIES:

Rotary cutter and mat

Sewing machine with balanced zig zag; sewing machine manual

Thread and machine needle: universal, ballpoint, or jersey

knit fabric with 50% 4-way stretch

SUPPLIES:

Rotary cutter and mat

Sewing machine with balanced zig zag; sewing machine manual

Pattern

Thread and machine needle: universal or sharp

light woven fabric (lawn, voile, batiste or gauze)

Invisible zipper

Non-stretch interfacing (1/8 yard)