Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along Photo Badge

jalie hoodie sew-along: update!

Edit November 2015: the sew-along is finished! Below you can reach the different parts of the sew-along by clicking on an image. The tagset “jalie hoodie sew-along” contains any and all posts relating to the sew-along. Enjoy!

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Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along Photo Badge
Hey there stitchers! You still have time to grab up your supplies to make up a hoodie in time for fall. This hoodie is easy, elegant, and oh-so-customizable. Please be sure to double-check my supply post and the comments therein, to make sure you’re set up to succeed.

Here are a few sneak peaks of the first finished version I made my daughter:

Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along: Starting Soon!
This hoodie allows for a lot of opportunity to colorblock. The sleeves alone have four separate pieces, not including the cuff (shown above, in a pea-green and charcoal stripe).  For a firmer cuff, find a quality knit interfacing (as per my supplies post). And due to popular demand I will be demonstrating how to construct a thumbhole in the cuff, as well!

Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along: Starting Soon!

I used a sage green cotton velour from Nature’s Fabrics. Most non-stitchers ask – “what’s velour?” I usually bring up the LOVE PINK line, and they light up (or power down!) and say, “Oh!” However unlike most retail activewear, the Nature’s Fabrics velours are thicker, have a larger percentage of natural fiber, and feel and perform better.

As a tailor – and one stitcher to another – velour is the most ridiculous choice of fabric to create something with several stitching lines. This has to do with the makeup of the fabric and its finish. Velour has a pile, like a very subtle corduroy, which means every fold and stitching line will show up. But unlike a high-pile fabric such as faux fur, the pile isn’t long enough to obscure mistakes or slight off-grain variations. I am skilled at being on-grain (as my extreme close-ups show!) – but pick velour at your peril!

So for my construction, I kept topstitching to a minimum. And where I did topstitch (as shown above) I used a narrow zig zag. You however, can do what you please! Just make sure to test your fabric to see what you like.

Speaking of finishes: 

Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along: Starting Soon!
Here you can see the construction techique I use, in a shoulder seam and collar, on the inside of the garment. I use a narrow zig zag for seams, serge-finish the seams (entirely unnecessary, but always an option), and hand-stitched the inside collar lower seam. This is the only bit of handstitching in the whole garment. It is a good way to practice – but if you want to stitch this finishing bit by machine, you can as well (more on that, when we get there!).

So! I am beyond excited to work with you on this!

Let’s do it!

Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along: Starting Soon!
Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along: Starting Soon!

Our sew-along starts October 1st. In the meantime, if you have any questions you can email, @kellyhogaboom on Twitter, or comment here. If you like, add a badge to your blog, or subscribe to the sew-a-long updates via RSS!

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Sew-A-Long ONLY rss feed | “jalie hoodie sew-along” ONLY rss feed

 
Save The Date: Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along

supply list: jalie sew-along

Edit November 2015: the sew-along is finished! Below you can reach the different parts of the sew-along by clicking on an image. The tagset “jalie hoodie sew-along” contains any and all posts relating to the sew-along. Enjoy!

sal-m-1 sal-m-2
sal-m-3 sal-m-4 sal-m-5 sal-m-6
sal-m-7 sal-m-8
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Save The Date: Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along
Are you ready?

BONESAW IS READYAWWWW YEAH!

Four our Jalie hoodie, the supply list is short and sweet. We need the following: your Jalie pattern, hoodie fabric, separating zipper, thread, and appropriate needle. Read on:

Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along: Supply List
From top to bottom: Jalie pattern, hoodie fabrics of sage velour and two cotton knits, separating zipper, thread, label, and jersey needles.

Pattern:
As I’ve previously mentioned, Jalie is moving their catalog to .pdf option, which is fabulous. More and more pattern companies are offering .pdf versions in large-scale – for printing on a plotter. Jalie isn’t yet doing this size, so my partner takes the pdf pages and “pastes” them, then we send it to the copy shop. This can be done for most electronic patterns, although some are easier than others – and some sites, like sewingpatterns.com, have such stringent copyright protection it is too troublesome to try.

Fabric:
First, if you aren’t familiar with sewing with knits, or if you have had bad experiences, I recommend taking a deep breath, getting a cup of tea, and taking a couple minutes to read through my new-to-knits post, as well as – if you like – my other knit tutorials. Sewing with knit fabrics is not rocket science. But there are a few things to keep in mind – and trust me, the more experienced you get, the more you’ll love these fabrics!

The pattern recommends fabrics with 25% four-way stretch. This means the knit has to stretch at least 25% in both the lengthwise and crosswise grain. This is simple to determine: grip two points on the crossgrain of the fabric four inches apart, and stretch. The fabric will need to stretch to at least five inches comfortably.

The pattern also recommends lengthwise stretch at 25%. In my case, my fabric barely qualifies. But since the lengthwise stretch is far less important to comfort than crosswise for this garment (fitted tights and swimsuits, for instance, really do need to take lengthwise grain into consideration), I figure I’m good to go.

For fabric yardage, I highly recommend looking at the pattern back. Measure your intended client at the bust, waist, and hip. Determine their size. If they are between sizes, use the largest size measurement for yardage. For instance, my daughter is a size S at bust and waist and T at hip, so I elected to make a size T, and grade up to a size U at hip.

On the back of the pattern,  you will find the yardage of 59″ wide knit fabric you need to purchase for your size.

Zipper:
The back of the pattern also lists the size of separating zipper you need at the lower right in a table. You can buy a separating zipper at your craft or fabric shop, but keep in mind separating zipper selection is usually pretty small. I purchased mine from zipperstop (more in a moment about that).

Thread:
I use a cotton-wrapped poly for most my apparel. I tend to favor Mettler, but I also buy whatever is available to me when I’m in a pinch. Bargain-basement or old thread is a no-no, but Coats & Clark is fine. I will be serge-finishing my seams (so I need thread for my serger); but zig-zag finishing or leaving them unfinished is probably fine, too. Test samples on your fabric and see what you think!

Needles:
The correct needle depends on the fabric you are using. In general, a jersey or ballpoint needle is best for natural-based stretch fabrics (wool, cotton, linen, etc), while a stretch needle will work well for synthetic stretch fabrics.

Notions:
You will need a few other supplies: a tracing medium, interfacing and stabilizer.

You can trace with almost anything, and we could debate the merits for quite some time. You can use Swedish Tracing Medium, tissue paper, project paper from the copy supply store, newsprint, or – my personal favorite – sew-in interfacing.

I will be interfacing the pocket welts (piece H) as well as 1″ along all pattern piece edges we install the zipper to (so: the collar [L], front [A], and waistband [N] pieces). This is a small amount of interfacing – purchase 1/4″ in case you mess up. As for types of interfacing, select either knit or lightweight weft varieties (for all my interfacings, I use Pat Erny’s fabulous products at Fashion Sewing Supply). You don’t need a stretch knit for these interfacings because the bits we are interfacing, don’t need to stretch.

I never sew knits without several kinds of washaway stabilizer. Washaway stabilizers are simply non-woven, non-knit products that stabilize either under or on top of the work, while we stitch, then are washed out with water and gentle agitation (or laundering). They make for better results on knits, and even the oldest, most antiquated zig zag sewing machine can sew knits easily using these methods. When it comes to washaway stabilizers, I always have a sticky and non-stick version on hand. I use Solvy’s Fabri Sticky Solvy (in a roll as well as printable sheets), and (for non-stick) Vilene plus. Bonus: the non-stick version can even be dissolved and painted on knit seam allowances to make for stable sewing – far cheaper than buying a stabilizing spray.

And now – OH MY GOSH. Let me tell you about a little sumthin’-sumthin’ I treated myself to: the YKK sample book, containing ALL the zipper fabric shades they make. It can be hard to perfectly-match a zipper, but it’s something I need to do! And now, I have that power IN MY VERY HANDS! muah-ha-ha-HA!

Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along: Supply List
Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along: Supply List
Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along: Supply List
So – yeah. Pretty cool, huh?

Our sew-along starts October 1st. In the meantime, if you have any questions you can email, @kellyhogaboom on Twitter, or comment here. If you like, add a badge to your blog, or subscribe to the sew-a-long updates via RSS!

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Sew-A-Long ONLY rss feed | “jalie hoodie sew-along” ONLY rss feed

 
Save The Date: Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along

save the date: Jalie hoodie sew-along, October 1, 2015

Edit November 2015: the sew-along is finished! Below you can reach the different parts of the sew-along by clicking on an image. The tagset “jalie hoodie sew-along” contains any and all posts relating to the sew-along. Enjoy!

sal-m-1 sal-m-2
sal-m-3 sal-m-4 sal-m-5 sal-m-6
sal-m-7 sal-m-8
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Save The Date: Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along
It’s time for another sew-along! Save the date for October 1st, and plan to finish your new hoodie by Halloween. My next posts will over the next week – supplies posts. If you’d like to join the sew-along and receive a fabric coupon (see below), please comment here!

October is a wild month, both in terms of weather here in the Pacific Northwest, and lovely Halloweeny fun! So to that end:

Save The Date: Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along

Cotton velours in Halloween colorways!

Those of you who join the sew-along, I have a 10% coupon for you to use from Nature’s Fabrics (with their blessing), should you want to buy one of their amazing fabrics. They have a wonderful selection and are very accommodating.

As to the pattern: after some queries to the sewing public at large, I selected Jalie 2795: a zip-up, raglan-sleeve, offering with gender-neutral detailing. Jalie’s drafting is perfect, and their size range is huge: 27 sizes (a size 2T to a 50″ bust). If you are new to sewing, you can get your feet wet by making a small-size hoodie for a child or a friend’s child (consider a freezer-paper motif!). The larger size range also means you can buy one pattern and sew for the family!

Best of all, perhaps: Jalie is converting more and more of their catalog to a PDF form: which means you can buy the pattern from where you sit, and print it from home.

Early September I’ll post a supply list, so we all have plenty of time to get what we need before adventuring forth. In the meantime, if you have any questions you can email, @kellyhogaboom on Twitter, or comment here.

Jalie 2795: Pattern Front
Jalie 2795: Pattern Back

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Make sure to add a badge to your blog, and to subscribe to the sew-a-long updates!
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DEM JEANS Sew-A-Long

dem jeans part 3: front pockets

DEM JEANS Sew-A-Long

OK, we are getting down to it for real this post. At this juncture, we should have all our jeans cut (except for belt carriers, waistband, and waistband facing – we’ll get to those!), our pieces marked, and our decisions about topstitching and needles all down pat. We covered all this material in our first and second posts.

Time to start on the front of the jeans with something nice and easy: the front pockets. We will be putting an optional stencil in the jean pocket, and will need to give the paint a moment to dry – so plan accordingly. We are also trying our hand at hammering rivets!

And in case you haven’t already figured this out:

I HOPE YOU ARE READY FOR ONE BILLION PHOTOS OF JEAN CONSTRUCTION, BECAUSE THAT’S WHAT YOU’RE GETTING

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Kai-Jeans! Selvedge Denim

Kai-Jeans! Selvedge Denim

Babies, my dem jeans sew-a-long is underway.  Posted here:

yellow Japanese selvedge denim with a monster-tentacle back pocket detail and articulated knees!

Kai-Jeans! Selvedge Denim
Brass findings: rivets and buttons. Four-button button-fly. Crossgrain and steam-shaped waistband (i.e. the most comfortable, long-lasting, and great-looking jean waistband you’ll ever wear!).

Kai-Jeans! Selvedge Denim
The interior of my button fly. You won’t find a better-looking button fly. I would invite you to look at the interior of your own designer jeans, but it might make you sad.

Kai-Jeans! Selvedge Denim
My favorite bit: while designing these jeans I’d been watching kaiju films, so I had this sort of seaweed-tentacle motif banging around in my brain. By the way, denim pocket topstitching is really soothing.

Kai-Jeans! Selvedge Denim
Uber-closeup of the back yoke at side seam, finished with triple-stitch. The waistband is finished by “stitching in the ditch” with an invisible-stitch result, as we see here.

Kai-Jeans! Selvedge Denim
OK, maybe THIS is my favorite bit? Articulated knees as formed by small darts in the inseam and outseam of the front leg. If you haven’t worn jeans with this detail, you will be amazed how much more comfortable they are!

Kai-Jeans! Selvedge Denim
And the selvedge outseam – Japanese selvedge denim, and people pay about $200 to $800 for a pair of jeans made with this detail.

Kai-Jeans! Selvedge Denim
I have come to realize that sewing is as much about design as it is technical savvy. One can master technical sewing skills far faster than develop a design sense and acumen. If you’re reading here, know that for most of us, it takes time, patience, blood, sweat, and tears to develop a design voice. Don’t let the amount of work, time, and yes – failures (or misfires) deter you from stepping on the path. It is a very special feeling to be able to create something – in my case, one-of-a-kind custom garments – that no one else has made, and that stands the test of time.

Happy stitching, lovelies!