Kelly Hogaboom, Hoodie livestream

“seams legit” sewing lesson: a hoodie!

Kelly Hogaboom, Hoodie livestream

Update: both videos are up (#1 and #2)! They are linked at the bottom of this post.

It’s July – already! We had a great time last month sewing up a sundress. This month we are making a zip hoodie! I know, I know – for those of you in the Northern Hemisphere it might be hot as balls outside. But the thing is, this means it’s also evening bonfire weather – and believe it or not, fall isn’t that far off.

You can sign up for this livestream event on Facebook, if you want a reminder and updates!

A reminder that for all sew-alongs in my Seams Legit series you need:

1. a machine with its manual; the machine needs to be tuned-up and sewing a balanced zig-zag

2. the supplies listed in the pattern, as well as a thorough read-through of the pattern you use

I demonstrate all my cutting with rotary and mat. You will need your fabrics pre-washed, and your fabric pieces cut by Friday the 26th at noon PST. I will demonstrate the homework/fabric prep, in a video at the bottom of this post.

SUPPLIES:

 

Rotary cutter and mat

Sewing machine with balanced zig zag; sewing machine manual

pattern (children’s, women’s, men’s, or a bundle!)

Thread and machine needle: universal or ballpoint

stable 2-way stretch knit (35% stretch)

drawstring fabric & contrast fabric for drawstring eyelet

separating zipper

non-stretch interfacing (1/8 yard)

As I mentioned at the beginning of the year, each project gets successively more complex. This hoodie – especially as it’s sewn in a stable knit – isn’t difficult at all – just a few steps. And the absolutely gorgeous details – like the little welt pockets? – are going to make you feel like a rock star when you’re finished!

So here’s what you need to do:

1. read through this post & purchase your pattern & supplies;

2. pre-treat your fabrics & cut your pieces

3. sew with us live on the 26th (on my FB page or my Twitch stream)!

Children’s:
chest: 19 3/4″ to 32″
hip: 20 1/4″ to 33 1/2″

Women’s:
chest: 29″ to 51 1/2″
hip: 31″ to 53 1/2″

Men’s:
chest: 33″ to 56″
hip: 33″ to 56″

So if you look below – for an individual with a chest of 40″, waist of 37″, and hip of 42″, you will see this individual falls within the Medium size. This is the size I will print and cut.

Kelly Hogaboom, Hoodie livestream

Once you’ve determined the size you need, you will be cutting out your paper pattern and your fabrics. Below, I’ve attached both videos in the series. By the end of the first video you will have all your fabrics and interfacing strips cut out. By the end of the second, your hoodie will be completed.


[ video 1 ][ video 2 ]

Two notes:

In the first video, I only cut out two pocket pieces; you should cut out four.

In the second video, I baste-fit the front of the hoodie for the zipper insertion, then I abandoned this method to pin instead. The zipper insertion is the most difficult part of the hoodie. When you get to my baste-fitting adventure, ignore that part of the lesson. Relax and have a sip of tea, or read ahead, or tidy your sewing space.

Any questions? Feel free to ask them in the comments below.

2019 "Seams Legit" calendar
Me!

autumn fires / settling in

Me!

It’s not a bad time of year to tuck in and do all of those little things. I’ve been sewing a great deal, and have even taken some time to cook. Two Thanksgiving meals right in a row this week!
Candied Pecans

Stuffing (Sourdough & Sage)

Beeps is, incredibly, almost done with another quarter at college. Inching towards graduation. Despite being perceived as rather intimidating, they seem to have a pretty solid social life these days. Meaning: I miss them, I don’t get as many cuddles as I used to. I still get them though, and I treasure each one.

Beeps

I finished up a quilt I started a couple years ago!Quilt (Goldfish)
And I’ve made a few cozy robes:Robe

Robe

More snuggles.13 Years Old

And some lunch dates.Beeps

Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along Photo Badge

jalie hoodie sew-along post 6: Step 6 assembly

Edit November 2015: the sew-along is finished! Below you can reach the different parts of the sew-along by clicking on an image. The tagset “jalie hoodie sew-along” contains any and all posts relating to the sew-along. Enjoy!

sal-m-1 sal-m-2
sal-m-3 sal-m-4 sal-m-5 sal-m-6
sal-m-7 sal-m-8
***

Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along Photo Badge
Hey there stitchers! Today, we have our final post. I have so appreciated those of you who’ve commented, emailed, and posted to the Facebook group. I hope you’ve had as good a time as I have!

So: onward and upward! We’re installing our inner collar, and finishing up!

sunshine

IMG_0261

jalie hoodie sew-along post 5: Step 5 assembly

Edit November 2015: the sew-along is finished! Below you can reach the different parts of the sew-along by clicking on an image. The tagset “jalie hoodie sew-along” contains any and all posts relating to the sew-along. Enjoy!

sal-m-1 sal-m-2
sal-m-3 sal-m-4 sal-m-5 sal-m-6
sal-m-7 sal-m-8
***
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Hey there stitchers! Time to get back to hoodie-stitching! And before we start: here’s my second version of the Jalie hoodie:

IMG_0261
I made this beauty as a cosplay piece for my daughter, at her request. Based off the iconic hoodie of emo, surly Robbie from “Gravity Falls”:

Robbie, "Gravity Falls"
So: onward and upward! We’re assembling our hood today!

Excited!

Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along Photo Badge

jalie hoodie sew-along post 3: Step 3 assembly

Edit November 2015: the sew-along is finished! Below you can reach the different parts of the sew-along by clicking on an image. The tagset “jalie hoodie sew-along” contains any and all posts relating to the sew-along. Enjoy!

sal-m-1 sal-m-2
sal-m-3 sal-m-4 sal-m-5 sal-m-6
sal-m-7 sal-m-8
***

Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along Photo Badge
Thank you to all who’ve been emailing and commenting here, and on the Facebook group. We are already about halfway through our hoodie!

Let’s get started!

Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along Photo Badge

jalie hoodie sew-along post 2: Step 2 assembly

Edit November 2015: the sew-along is finished! Below you can reach the different parts of the sew-along by clicking on an image. The tagset “jalie hoodie sew-along” contains any and all posts relating to the sew-along. Enjoy!

sal-m-1 sal-m-2
sal-m-3 sal-m-4 sal-m-5 sal-m-6
sal-m-7 sal-m-8
***

Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along Photo Badge
Hey there stitchers! Well, I thought I’d get crackin’ on Step 2 – getting to our sleeve and outer collar! This is by far the easiest Step of the process.

Before we get started, I want to remind you there is a Facebook group devoted to sew-alongs and contests, moderated by my friend Judy. This is a closed group; you have to ask to join. Here’s the skinny, though: if you join, and finish this hoodie by October 31st, you are entered in a random drawing for an amazing price pack: a Sew Chic pdf pattern, a Thread Theory pdf pattern, a Megan Nielsen pdf pattern, a $30 gift certificate to Nature’s Fabrics – and a shrinky-DON’T, made by moi!

Please note: this post is short and sweet, and I decided we didn’t need any companion audio. If you are catching up, and/or are new to sewing with knits or have fabric questions, please listen to my companion audio from Step one.

Let’s get started!

Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along Photo Badge

jalie hoodie sew-along post 1: fabric prep and Step 1 assembly

Edit November 2015: the sew-along is finished! Below you can reach the different parts of the sew-along by clicking on an image. The tagset “jalie hoodie sew-along” contains any and all posts relating to the sew-along. Enjoy!

sal-m-1 sal-m-2
sal-m-3 sal-m-4 sal-m-5 sal-m-6
sal-m-7 sal-m-8
***

Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along Photo Badge
Hey there stitchers! Wow! Have I had a spike in interest for this sew-along. I want to thank every person who has written, messaged, or emailed me with questions.

You can share pictures of your progress here – or at the Facebook group (a closed group; you have to ask to join) moderated by my friend and sew-along compatriot, Judy! If you finish this hoodie by October 31st and enter it into the group, you are entered in a random drawing for an amazing prize pack: a Sew Chic pdf pattern, a Thread Theory pdf pattern, a Megan Nielsen pdf pattern, a $30 gift certificate to Nature’s Fabrics – and a shrinky-DON’T, made by moi! There really is no catch – it’s just for fun!

Do the the number of questions I’ve received I have put together some companion audio to go with each sew-along post. You can listen here to my first installment, which covers a little about supplies, making a muslin, and a few common questions before we get started. This recording also walks us through this very post!  

Please note: if you are still feeling nervous about fabric selection, or if you are not proficient in layout and cutting, you will probably benefit from listening to the companion audio

OK? OK!

So – let’s get started!

Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along Photo Badge

jalie hoodie sew-along: update!

Edit November 2015: the sew-along is finished! Below you can reach the different parts of the sew-along by clicking on an image. The tagset “jalie hoodie sew-along” contains any and all posts relating to the sew-along. Enjoy!

sal-m-1 sal-m-2
sal-m-3 sal-m-4 sal-m-5 sal-m-6
sal-m-7 sal-m-8
***

Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along Photo Badge
Hey there stitchers! You still have time to grab up your supplies to make up a hoodie in time for fall. This hoodie is easy, elegant, and oh-so-customizable. Please be sure to double-check my supply post and the comments therein, to make sure you’re set up to succeed.

Here are a few sneak peaks of the first finished version I made my daughter:

Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along: Starting Soon!
This hoodie allows for a lot of opportunity to colorblock. The sleeves alone have four separate pieces, not including the cuff (shown above, in a pea-green and charcoal stripe).  For a firmer cuff, find a quality knit interfacing (as per my supplies post). And due to popular demand I will be demonstrating how to construct a thumbhole in the cuff, as well!

Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along: Starting Soon!

I used a sage green cotton velour from Nature’s Fabrics. Most non-stitchers ask – “what’s velour?” I usually bring up the LOVE PINK line, and they light up (or power down!) and say, “Oh!” However unlike most retail activewear, the Nature’s Fabrics velours are thicker, have a larger percentage of natural fiber, and feel and perform better.

As a tailor – and one stitcher to another – velour is the most ridiculous choice of fabric to create something with several stitching lines. This has to do with the makeup of the fabric and its finish. Velour has a pile, like a very subtle corduroy, which means every fold and stitching line will show up. But unlike a high-pile fabric such as faux fur, the pile isn’t long enough to obscure mistakes or slight off-grain variations. I am skilled at being on-grain (as my extreme close-ups show!) – but pick velour at your peril!

So for my construction, I kept topstitching to a minimum. And where I did topstitch (as shown above) I used a narrow zig zag. You however, can do what you please! Just make sure to test your fabric to see what you like.

Speaking of finishes: 

Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along: Starting Soon!
Here you can see the construction techique I use, in a shoulder seam and collar, on the inside of the garment. I use a narrow zig zag for seams, serge-finish the seams (entirely unnecessary, but always an option), and hand-stitched the inside collar lower seam. This is the only bit of handstitching in the whole garment. It is a good way to practice – but if you want to stitch this finishing bit by machine, you can as well (more on that, when we get there!).

So! I am beyond excited to work with you on this!

Let’s do it!

Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along: Starting Soon!
Jalie Hoodie Sew-Along: Starting Soon!

Our sew-along starts October 1st. In the meantime, if you have any questions you can email, @kellyhogaboom on Twitter, or comment here. If you like, add a badge to your blog, or subscribe to the sew-a-long updates via RSS!

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