Jalie 972 Overalls (line drawing), Kelly Hogaboom / Bespoke Hogaboom

jalie overalls sew-along

by sew-a-longsewing journal
Jalie 972 Overalls (line drawing), Kelly Hogaboom / Bespoke Hogaboom
Jalie 972 Overalls (photo), Kelly Hogaboom / Bespoke Hogaboom

jalie 972 - overalls

Chest: 21 1/4″ – 65″
Waist: 20 1/8″ – 60 5/8″
Hip: 21 5/8″ – 66 1/2″
Size table

Loose-fitting overalls/dungarees including adjustable straps and oversize fit.

Jalie’s patterns are fantastic – they come in one of the largest size ranges I’ve ever seen! The instructions come in English, French, and Spanish. I love Jalie’s drafting, the directions, and the welcoming culture in their Facebook group.

This is a retro/reproduce – Jalie scanned in the pattern and photo from back in the day (yes, they’ve been around a long while!). The pattern is therefore not available in layers, but it is available in print-at-home, AO, and 36″ formats!

Let’s get moving! Overalls are about as tricky as jeans – just a few more steps. The Jalie instructions are so gorgeous because you can really “see ahead” which I always appreciate.

Remember: I will be sewing live, and I will embed and upload the entire video playlist here as I go.

Materials needed:

The Jalie 972 overall pattern (here).
Non-stretch bottomweight
Jean buttons
Overall clips & sliders
Interfacing*
All-purpose thread
Topstitching thread*
Needles: denim (or heavy, sharp, universal); also double* and topstitch needles*
Tracing medium & tracing wheel
Paper & tape
Awl*
Buttonhole chisel*

* Optional; watch the first video for more information

– as well as your tuned-up sewing machine and manual, cutting equipment, pins, scissors, iron and ironing board!

For fabric, I’m using a fantastic corduroy!

I’ll be sewing on three machines: my domestic Pfaff, a White serger (for seam finishing), and my Pfaff 130 (for topstitching). If you don’t have three machines never fear – I will be going over how to make the jeans if you are only sewing with one machine; however, I highly recommend you borrow and set up a second machine for topstitching.

This sew-along begins 5 PM Pacific on Tuesday June 1st, 2021, hosted on my Twitch channel; they are then uploaded to my Vimeo channel if you miss out! And all dates are hosted on my Calendar (here’s a live link you can add to your own).

TUE 1: cutting & marking
WED 2: bib and back/back pockets
THU 3: front & front pockets
FRI 4: finishing
SAT 5: finishing, pt two; hardware

I’m excited to create alongside you!

Friday Pattern Ilford Jacket Sew-Along Livestream, Kelly Hogaboom / Bespoke Hogaboom

friday patterns ilford jacket sew-along

by sew-a-longsewing journal
Friday Pattern Ilford Jacket Sew-Along Livestream, Kelly Hogaboom / Bespoke Hogaboom

It’s that time again! Time for another sew-along. As the seasons change and we expect a bit more warmth where I live – I thought, why not a spring, smock-style jacket?

My selection this month is the Friday Ilford Jacket – a simple garment that’s great for the committed beginner ready to upgrade to trying a sleeve placket and a collar – that kind of thing. 

Joining me once again – I am delighted to say! – is my friend Traci Kay Pryde from @pryde.hantverk and we are leading you every step of the way through this fantastic garment!

friday pattern co ilford jacket

Bust: 32″ – 60″
Waist:  24″ – 53″
Hip: 34″ – 63″

Drop-shoulder unlined jacket in two lengths; pattern comes with a few different pocket templates. Plain sleeve or placket-style sleeve.

I’ll be making the short length, and the placket sleeve. I’ll also be interlining the jacket and I’ll talk about that as I go!

Here are the materials you need!

The Ilford Jacket pattern (here)
Buttons (5 – 10; the pattern recommends 1″ – 1 1/2″)
Bottomweight woven (sewing yardages are on page five of the pattern)
Interfacing (1 yard)
All-purpose thread & topstitching thread*
Needles: denim (or heavy, sharp, universal); topstitch needle*
Buttonhole chisel*

* optional

– as well as your tuned-up sewing machine and manual, cutting equipment, pins, scissors, iron and ironing board!

I’ll be sewing on three machines: my domestic Pfaff, a White serger (for some seam finishing), and my Pfaff 130 (for topstitching). If you don’t have three machines never fear – I will be going over how to construct the garment if you are only sewing with one machine.

Our schedule! This sew-along begins 5 PM Pacific on Tuesday the 23rd, hosted simultaneously on my Twitch channel; the videos are then uploaded to my Vimeo channel if you miss out! And all dates are hosted on my Calendar (here’s a live link you can add to your own).

TUE 23: cutting & marking
WED 24: sleeve plackets* & collar
FRI 26: body, front plackets, & cuffs
FRI 26: pockets, hem, buttons & buttonholes

* This pattern has us constructing sleeve plackets right off the bat, instead of when the garment is almost finished. One caveat: you will want to baste-fit and adjust your sleeve length first, because if your intended wearer needs a much shorter sleeve (as mine does!) you could possibly end up with a too-short sleeve placket if you don’t adjust first.

And finally! The best place to ask questions about this sew-along, is right here in the blog post! This blog post serves as the master document. 

Rad Patterns Kelly Jeans Sew-Along Livestream, Kelly Hogaboom / Bespoke Hogaboom

rad patterns kelly jeans sew-along

by sew-a-longsewing journal
Rad Patterns Kelly Jeans Sew-Along Livestream, Kelly Hogaboom / Bespoke Hogaboom

I am honored to be hosting a livestream sew-along for the Rad Pattern Kelly Jean – a rigid jean pattern in a wonderful adult size range!

The name is not a coincidence! Stephanie of Rad Patterns says, “They’re called the Kelly Jeans, named for my amazingly talented friend @bespokehogaboom who’s probably one of the most amazing jeans sewists on the planet”!

Ha ha I’m not crying, you’re crying!

Rad Patterns Kelly Jeans Sew-Along Livestream, Kelly Hogaboom / Bespoke Hogaboom

rad patterns kelly jean

Waist: 22 1/2″ – 73″
Hip: 32 1/2″ – 83″

Rigid (non-stretch) jean in several lengths. Curved waistband, zip fly, slouchy/boyfriend fit, low pockets.

My best jean-making tip: slow down! Read the directions, proceed carefully, and don’t be afraid to seam-rip and adjust for fit!

Let’s get moving! Jeans are tricky enough I thought I’d do a quick introduction video – covering our materials but also a bit of muslin prep. You can also skip ahead and read on before watching the video (in fact, I recommend reading this whole post first before watching anything). If you see anything goofy or confusing – just go ahead and leave a comment and I will attend to it directly!

Remember: I will be sewing live, and I will embed and upload the entire video playlist here as I go:

Here are the materials you need!

The Kelly Jean pattern (here).
Non-stretch denim or equivalent (sewing yardages are on page two of the pattern)
Interfacing
All-purpose thread & topstitching thread*
Needles: denim (or heavy, sharp, universal); also double* and topstitch needles*
Tracing medium & tracing wheel
Paper & tape
Awl*
Buttonhole chisel*

* Optional; watch the first video for more information

– as well as your tuned-up sewing machine and manual, cutting equipment, pins, scissors, iron and ironing board!

For fabric, I’m using a fantastic canvas from The Hand and Eye Sewing Supply – a fairly new fabric shop that has some absolutely fantastic bottomweights!

I’ll be sewing on three machines: my domestic Pfaff, a White serger (for seam finishing), and my Pfaff 130 (for topstitching). If you don’t have three machines never fear – I will be going over how to make the jeans if you are only sewing with one machine; however, I highly recommend you borrow and set up a second machine for topstitching.

Our schedule! This sew-along begins 5 PM Pacific on Saturday the 20th, hosted simultaneously on my Bespoke Hogaboom Facebook page and my Twitch channel; they are then uploaded to my Vimeo channel if you miss out! And all dates are hosted on my Calendar (here’s a live link you can add to your own).

If you have questions about jean construction – please ask here in the blog post. If you have questions about your specific jean muslin and fitting – ask in the Rad Patterns Facebook group!

SAT 20: cutting & marking
TUE 23: interfacing, back and front pockets
WED 24: back yoke, inseams, outseams
THU 25: zip fly, waistband
FRI 26: belt carriers, button & buttonhole, & grommets

And finally! You have the opportunity to enter the giveaway below! Please read carefully to enter. If you like, you can subscribe to my sewing emails (about one per month).

You do not have to subscribe to my emails for the giveaway!

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Free Range Slacks with Kelly Hogaboom & Bespoke Hogaboom (#gimmiesomeslack)

free range slacks sew-along!

by sew-a-longsewing journal
Free Range Slacks with Kelly Hogaboom & Bespoke Hogaboom (#gimmiesomeslack)

Update – our videos are uploaded, and you can watch them here:


Last month we led you through a button-up shirt – this month, we’re picking up the slack! Specifically, Sew House Seven’s Free Range Slacks, recently upgraded for a more inclusive size range!

Free Range Slacks with Kelly Hogaboom & Bespoke Hogaboom (#gimmiesomeslack)

This is a very exciting project – hosted by myself with a little help from Traci of Pryde Hantverk (@prydehantverk), a friend of mine I’ve known for over 25 years! I will also run an IG Live with Peggy Mead, the owner and operator of Sew House Seven (@sewhouse7)! As for the sewing sessions, these will be broadcasting on Facebook and Twitch, with a couple IG Live session recaps thrown in!

If you join us – make sure to tag your project with #gimmiesomeslack!

And we will walk you – step by step – in making these fabulous pants!

Free Range Slacks with Kelly Hogaboom & Bespoke Hogaboom (#gimmiesomeslack)

The Free Range Slacks feature a comfortable high waist with wide elastic, large pockets, either a wide or tapered leg, and the kind of exacting details I’ve come to adore from this pattern company. Sew House Seven’s patterns are like a mini-tailoring tutorial in and of themselves and they are a pattern line I recommend to committed beginners who want to learn some lovely seam finishes.

Size range as follows:

Regular Fit
Waist: 23 1/2″ – 39 1/2″
Hip: 34″ – 50″

Curvy Fit
Waist: 39 1/4″ – 57 1/4″
Hip: 49″ – 65″

For this sew-along you will need:

1. A tuned up machine that can sew a balanced zig zag, and your machine manual

2. Your pattern, notions, and materials (see below)

3. All thread, cutting and marking implements, et cetera

We start the project the 11th of August, but on the 1st I’ll host an IG Live to answer any questions (and you can post them here, too). All my livestreams are at 5 PM Pacific; all my sewing sessions will be broadcast on my Facebook page and my twitch (subscribe!).

Here is our schedule:

SAT 1: IG LIVE project introduction
MON 3: IG LIVE with Peggy of Sew House 7
TUE 11: cutting & marking
WED 12: front & back pockets
THU 13: side seams & inseam
FRI 14: rise, waistband, & hem
SUN 16: IG LIVE recap!

That’s a lot to remember; so please subscribe to my live calendar link if you want to get hooked in!

See you for #gimmiesomeslack!

curvy fit, tapered leg

Free Range Slacks with Kelly Hogaboom & Bespoke Hogaboom (#gimmiesomeslack), Curvy Fit

straight fit, wide leg

Free Range Slacks with Kelly Hogaboom & Bespoke Hogaboom (#gimmiesomeslack), Straight Fit
Free Range Slacks with Kelly Hogaboom & Bespoke Hogaboom (#gimmiesomeslack), Line Drawing

Materials Needed:
Pattern (I print mine at pdfplotting.com)
Bottomweight fabric as per pattern recommendations *
1 1/2″ elastic (your waist measurement + 1/2″) *
Thread: construction/all-purpose, and topstitching (optional)

Remember – your sewing machine needs its manual, you need to be able to sew a balanced zig zag, and you will need cutting and marking tools! In addition, you may find the following helpful:

Wax paper and wheel/tools for tracing and marking
A clapper (for flattening seams)
Bone folder (a vegan version, of course!)
Your super cool label – and yes, homemade is awesome!

Print, tape, and cut out your paper pattern. Pretreat your fabrics. Thread your machine.

And then we’ll see you on IG Live on the 1st – and on Bespoke Hogaboom (Facebook/Twitch) on the 11th! 

We’re looking forward to #gimmiesomeslack!

Finally, if you are serious about sewing – and you like my instruction – you might consider joining my lovely Discord community, and inclusive and body liberationist sewing group! (Incidentally, this is the best place to get FREE GRATIS sewing business advice, if that’s something you’re interested… or you think you might be).

* here is a great list of shops owned and operated by BIPOC and Allies!, as created by Jacinta Green of @blkmakersmatter!

OK! See on on the 1st!

Free Range Slacks with Kelly Hogaboom & Bespoke Hogaboom (#gimmiesomeslack)
Kelly Hogaboom, Hoodie livestream

“seams legit” sewing lesson: a hoodie!

by sew-a-longsewing journal
Kelly Hogaboom, hoodie livestream

Update: both videos are up (#1 and #2)! They are linked at the bottom of this post.

It’s July – already! We had a great time last month sewing up a sundress. This month we are making a zip hoodie! I know, I know – for those of you in the Northern Hemisphere it might be hot as balls outside. But the thing is, this means it’s also evening bonfire weather – and believe it or not, fall isn’t that far off.

You can sign up for this livestream event on Facebook, if you want a reminder and updates!

A reminder that for all sew-alongs in my Seams Legit series you need:

1. a machine with its manual; the machine needs to be tuned-up and sewing a balanced zig-zag

2. the supplies listed in the pattern, as well as a thorough read-through of the pattern you use

I demonstrate all my cutting with rotary and mat. You will need your fabrics pre-washed, and your fabric pieces cut by Friday the 26th at noon PST. I will demonstrate the homework/fabric prep, in a video at the bottom of this post.

SUPPLIES:

 

Rotary cutter and mat

Sewing machine with balanced zig zag; sewing machine manual

pattern (children’s, women’s, men’s, or a bundle!)

Thread and machine needle: universal or ballpoint

stable 2-way stretch knit (35% stretch)

drawstring fabric & contrast fabric for drawstring eyelet

separating zipper

non-stretch interfacing (1/8 yard)

As I mentioned at the beginning of the year, each project gets successively more complex. This hoodie – especially as it’s sewn in a stable knit – isn’t difficult at all – just a few steps. And the absolutely gorgeous details – like the little welt pockets? – are going to make you feel like a rock star when you’re finished!

So here’s what you need to do:

1. read through this post & purchase your pattern & supplies;

2. pre-treat your fabrics & cut your pieces

3. sew with us live on the 26th (on my FB page or my Twitch stream)!

Children’s:
chest: 19 3/4″ to 32″
hip: 20 1/4″ to 33 1/2″

Women’s:
chest: 29″ to 51 1/2″
hip: 31″ to 53 1/2″

Men’s:
chest: 33″ to 56″
hip: 33″ to 56″

So if you look below – for an individual with a chest of 40″, waist of 37″, and hip of 42″, you will see this individual falls within the Medium size. This is the size I will print and cut.

Kelly Hogaboom, hoodie livestream

Once you’ve determined the size you need, you will be cutting out your paper pattern and your fabrics. Below, I’ve attached both videos in the series. By the end of the first video you will have all your fabrics and interfacing strips cut out. By the end of the second, your hoodie will be completed.


[ video 1 ][ video 2 ]

Two notes:

In the first video, I only cut out two pocket pieces; you should cut out four.

In the second video, I baste-fit the front of the hoodie for the zipper insertion, then I abandoned this method to pin instead. The zipper insertion is the most difficult part of the hoodie. When you get to my baste-fitting adventure, ignore that part of the lesson. Relax and have a sip of tea, or read ahead, or tidy your sewing space.

Any questions? Feel free to ask them in the comments below.

Kelly Hogaboom, hoodie livestream
Kelly Hogaboom, hoodie livestream
2019 "Seams Legit" calendar