Rad Patterns Kelly Jeans Sew-Along Livestream, Kelly Hogaboom / Bespoke Hogaboom

rad patterns kelly jeans sew-along

Rad Patterns Kelly Jeans Sew-Along Livestream, Kelly Hogaboom / Bespoke Hogaboom

I am honored to be hosting a livestream sew-along for the Rad Pattern Kelly Jean – a rigid jean pattern in a wonderful adult size range!

The name is not a coincidence! Stephanie of Rad Patterns says, “They’re called the Kelly Jeans, named for my amazingly talented friend @bespokehogaboom who’s probably one of the most amazing jeans sewists on the planet”!

Ha ha I’m not crying, you’re crying!

Rad Patterns Kelly Jeans Sew-Along Livestream, Kelly Hogaboom / Bespoke Hogaboom

rad patterns kelly jean

Waist: 22 1/2″ – 73″
Hip: 32 1/2″ – 83″

Rigid (non-stretch) jean in several lengths. Curved waistband, zip fly, slouchy/boyfriend fit, low pockets.

My best jean-making tip: slow down! Read the directions, proceed carefully, and don’t be afraid to seam-rip and adjust for fit!

Let’s get moving! Jeans are tricky enough I thought I’d do a quick introduction video – covering our materials but also a bit of muslin prep. You can also skip ahead and read on before watching the video (in fact, I recommend reading this whole post first before watching anything). If you see anything goofy or confusing – just go ahead and leave a comment and I will attend to it directly!

Remember: I will be sewing live, and I will embed and upload the entire video playlist here as I go:

Here are the materials you need!

The Kelly Jean pattern (here).
Non-stretch denim or equivalent (sewing yardages are on page two of the pattern)
Interfacing
All-purpose thread & topstitching thread*
Needles: denim (or heavy, sharp, universal); also double* and topstitch needles*
Tracing medium & tracing wheel
Paper & tape
Awl*
Buttonhole chisel*

* Optional; watch the first video for more information

– as well as your tuned-up sewing machine and manual, cutting equipment, pins, scissors, iron and ironing board!

For fabric, I’m using a fantastic canvas from The Hand and Eye Sewing Supply – a fairly new fabric shop that has some absolutely fantastic bottomweights!

I’ll be sewing on three machines: my domestic Pfaff, a White serger (for seam finishing), and my Pfaff 130 (for topstitching). If you don’t have three machines never fear – I will be going over how to make the jeans if you are only sewing with one machine; however, I highly recommend you borrow and set up a second machine for topstitching.

Our schedule! This sew-along begins 5 PM Pacific on Saturday the 20th, hosted simultaneously on my Bespoke Hogaboom Facebook page and my Twitch channel; they are then uploaded to my Vimeo channel if you miss out! And all dates are hosted on my Calendar (here’s a live link you can add to your own).

If you have questions about jean construction – please ask here in the blog post. If you have questions about your specific jean muslin and fitting – ask in the Rad Patterns Facebook group!

SAT 20: cutting & marking
TUE 23: interfacing, back and front pockets
WED 24: back yoke, inseams, outseams
THU 25: zip fly, waistband
FRI 26: belt carriers, button & buttonhole, & grommets

And finally! You have the opportunity to enter the giveaway below! Please read carefully to enter. If you like, you can subscribe to my sewing emails (about one per month).

You do not have to subscribe to my emails for the giveaway!

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Free Range Slacks with Kelly Hogaboom & Bespoke Hogaboom (#gimmiesomeslack)

free range slacks sew-along!

Update – our videos are uploaded, and you can watch them here:


Last month we led you through a button-up shirt – this month, we’re picking up the slack! Specifically, Sew House Seven’s Free Range Slacks, recently upgraded for a more inclusive size range!

Free Range Slacks with Kelly Hogaboom & Bespoke Hogaboom (#gimmiesomeslack)

This is a very exciting project – hosted by myself with a little help from Traci of Pryde Hantverk (@prydehantverk), a friend of mine I’ve known for over 25 years! I will also run an IG Live with Peggy Mead, the owner and operator of Sew House Seven (@sewhouse7)! As for the sewing sessions, these will be broadcasting on Facebook and Twitch, with a couple IG Live session recaps thrown in!

If you join us – make sure to tag your project with #gimmiesomeslack!

And we will walk you – step by step – in making these fabulous pants!

Free Range Slacks with Kelly Hogaboom & Bespoke Hogaboom (#gimmiesomeslack)

The Free Range Slacks feature a comfortable high waist with wide elastic, large pockets, either a wide or tapered leg, and the kind of exacting details I’ve come to adore from this pattern company. Sew House Seven’s patterns are like a mini-tailoring tutorial in and of themselves and they are a pattern line I recommend to committed beginners who want to learn some lovely seam finishes.

Size range as follows:

Regular Fit
Waist: 23 1/2″ – 39 1/2″

Hip: 34″ – 50″

Curvy Fit
Waist: 39 1/4″ – 57 1/4″
Hip: 49″ – 65″

For this sew-along you will need:

1. A tuned up machine that can sew a balanced zig zag, and your machine manual

2. Your pattern, notions, and materials (see below)

3. All thread, cutting and marking implements, et cetera

We start the project the 11th of August, but on the 1st I’ll host an IG Live to answer any questions (and you can post them here, too). All my livestreams are at 5 PM Pacific; all my sewing sessions will be broadcast on my Facebook page and my twitch (subscribe!).

Here is our schedule:

SAT 1: IG LIVE project introduction
MON 3: IG LIVE with Peggy of Sew House 7
TUE 11: cutting & marking
WED 12: front & back pockets

THU 13: side seams & inseam
FRI 14: rise, waistband, & hem
SUN 16: IG LIVE recap!

That’s a lot to remember; so please subscribe to my live calendar link if you want to get hooked in!

See you for #gimmiesomeslack!

curvy fit, tapered leg

Free Range Slacks with Kelly Hogaboom & Bespoke Hogaboom (#gimmiesomeslack), Curvy Fit

straight fit, wide leg

Free Range Slacks with Kelly Hogaboom & Bespoke Hogaboom (#gimmiesomeslack), Straight Fit
Free Range Slacks with Kelly Hogaboom & Bespoke Hogaboom (#gimmiesomeslack), Line Drawing

Materials Needed:
Pattern (I print mine at pdfplotting.com)
Bottomweight fabric as per pattern recommendations *
1 1/2″ elastic (your waist measurement + 1/2″) *
Thread: construction/all-purpose, and topstitching (optional)

Remember – your sewing machine needs its manual, you need to be able to sew a balanced zig zag, and you will need cutting and marking tools! In addition, you may find the following helpful:

Wax paper and wheel/tools for tracing and marking
A clapper (for flattening seams)
Bone folder (a vegan version, of course!)
Your super cool label – and yes, homemade is awesome!

Print, tape, and cut out your paper pattern. Pretreat your fabrics. Thread your machine.

And then we’ll see you on IG Live on the 1st – and on Bespoke Hogaboom (Facebook/Twitch) on the 11th! 

We’re looking forward to #gimmiesomeslack!

Finally, if you are serious about sewing – and you like my instruction – you might consider joining my lovely Discord community, and inclusive and body liberationist sewing group! (Incidentally, this is the best place to get FREE GRATIS sewing business advice, if that’s something you’re interested… or you think you might be).

* here is a great list of shops owned and operated by BIPOC and Allies!, as created by Jacinta Green of @blkmakersmatter!

OK! See on on the 1st!

Free Range Slacks with Kelly Hogaboom & Bespoke Hogaboom (#gimmiesomeslack)
Kelly Hogaboom, Hoodie livestream

“seams legit” sewing lesson: a hoodie!

Kelly Hogaboom, hoodie livestream

Update: both videos are up (#1 and #2)! They are linked at the bottom of this post.

It’s July – already! We had a great time last month sewing up a sundress. This month we are making a zip hoodie! I know, I know – for those of you in the Northern Hemisphere it might be hot as balls outside. But the thing is, this means it’s also evening bonfire weather – and believe it or not, fall isn’t that far off.

You can sign up for this livestream event on Facebook, if you want a reminder and updates!

A reminder that for all sew-alongs in my Seams Legit series you need:

1. a machine with its manual; the machine needs to be tuned-up and sewing a balanced zig-zag

2. the supplies listed in the pattern, as well as a thorough read-through of the pattern you use

I demonstrate all my cutting with rotary and mat. You will need your fabrics pre-washed, and your fabric pieces cut by Friday the 26th at noon PST. I will demonstrate the homework/fabric prep, in a video at the bottom of this post.

SUPPLIES:

 

Rotary cutter and mat

Sewing machine with balanced zig zag; sewing machine manual

pattern (children’s, women’s, men’s, or a bundle!)

Thread and machine needle: universal or ballpoint

stable 2-way stretch knit (35% stretch)

drawstring fabric & contrast fabric for drawstring eyelet

separating zipper

non-stretch interfacing (1/8 yard)

As I mentioned at the beginning of the year, each project gets successively more complex. This hoodie – especially as it’s sewn in a stable knit – isn’t difficult at all – just a few steps. And the absolutely gorgeous details – like the little welt pockets? – are going to make you feel like a rock star when you’re finished!

So here’s what you need to do:

1. read through this post & purchase your pattern & supplies;

2. pre-treat your fabrics & cut your pieces

3. sew with us live on the 26th (on my FB page or my Twitch stream)!

Children’s:
chest: 19 3/4″ to 32″
hip: 20 1/4″ to 33 1/2″

Women’s:
chest: 29″ to 51 1/2″
hip: 31″ to 53 1/2″

Men’s:
chest: 33″ to 56″
hip: 33″ to 56″

So if you look below – for an individual with a chest of 40″, waist of 37″, and hip of 42″, you will see this individual falls within the Medium size. This is the size I will print and cut.

Kelly Hogaboom, hoodie livestream

Once you’ve determined the size you need, you will be cutting out your paper pattern and your fabrics. Below, I’ve attached both videos in the series. By the end of the first video you will have all your fabrics and interfacing strips cut out. By the end of the second, your hoodie will be completed.


[ video 1 ][ video 2 ]

Two notes:

In the first video, I only cut out two pocket pieces; you should cut out four.

In the second video, I baste-fit the front of the hoodie for the zipper insertion, then I abandoned this method to pin instead. The zipper insertion is the most difficult part of the hoodie. When you get to my baste-fitting adventure, ignore that part of the lesson. Relax and have a sip of tea, or read ahead, or tidy your sewing space.

Any questions? Feel free to ask them in the comments below.

2019 "Seams Legit" calendar
Kelly Hogaboom, Sundress Livestream

“seams legit” sewing lesson: a sundress!

Kelly Hogaboom, Sundress Livestream

Update: all three of our videos are uploaded! You can follow along here:

[Video 1]
[Video 2]
[Video 3]

"Seams Legit" June 2019: sewing a sundress!

It’s June, it’s heating up, and the studio is staying cool! We had a lovely time sewing up a t-shirt in June; this month we are stepping up and making ourselves a light sundress!

A reminder that for all sew-alongs in my Seams Legit series you need:

1. a machine with its manual; the machine needs to be tuned-up and sewing a balanced zig-zag

2. the supplies listed in the pattern, as well as a thorough read-through of the pattern you use

I demonstrate all my cutting with rotary and mat. You will need your fabrics pre-washed, and your fabric pieces cut by Friday the 28th at noon PST. In addition, you will want to do your homework: prepping your paper pattern pieces, pre-treating and cutting out your fabrics. I will demonstrate how to do this at the end of this post.

So! Let’s talk about this month’s project!

SUPPLIES:

Rotary cutter and mat

Sewing machine with balanced zig zag; sewing machine manual

Pattern

Thread and machine needle: universal or sharp

light woven fabric (lawn, voile, batiste or gauze)

Invisible zipper

Non-stretch interfacing (1/8 yard)

As I mentioned at the beginning of the year, each project gets successively more complex. For this sundress, you will need to do the following:

1. read through this post, & purchase your pattern & supplies;

2. create facings, pre-treat fabrics & cut your pieces (video here);

3. sew with us live on the 28th (on my FB page or my Twitch stream):

[Video 2]
[Video 3]

For our pattern, we will be using a simple sleeveless dress pattern by Bootstrap fashion, featuring double box pleats at the skirt waist and very pretty chevron pleats in the fitted bodice. You can find the pattern here.

Like all Bootstrap, Tailornova, and Lekala patterns, you get to insert your own measurements and body proportions. This pattern therefore has a large size range:

waist: 17″ to 67″
hip: 17″ to 68″

We will be making a few changes: creating our own facings, adding pockets, and inserting a center back invisible zipper (instead of a side zip).

You can either buy extra yardage, or print and cut the pattern out to determine your yardage (make sure you account for the facings we will be adding).

For this pattern, you first need to create your Bootstrap account if you haven’t already (I have a walk-through on this previous post). Then, you need to find the pattern, and take the following measurements to enter into the pattern generator:

Height
Bust
Underbust
Waist
Upper arm
Low hip

Belly protuberance

Each of these measurements has a little red asterisk (*) next to the input window, so you can see a helpful diagram of exactly how to take the measurement.

You may notice there are other measurements you can take; like the “Hips + Belly (Optional)”. Ignore these for now. Do make sure to select your seam allowance, and the PRINT option at 36″, to send to a copy shop (I use pdfplotting.com).

If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask them!

Please take your time making sure you have the exact measurements you need, and they are entered correctly. Make sure also, you have seam allowance selected and the correct PRINT format (36″).

This project takes more time to set up, than to actually sew. So do yourself a favor and get your pattern printed soon, calculate the yardage needed, buy your fabrics and notions, create your facings, and prepare for our sewing date on the 28th!

"Seams Legit" June 2019: sewing a sundress!
We prepare our paper pattern, create our facings and pockets, and cut and mark our fabrics.

I am always available here or through email. Any questions? Comment below!

2019 "Seams Legit" calendar
Kelly Hogaboom, Pyjamas Livestream

“seams legit” sewing lesson: pyjama pants!

It’s April, and spring is well underway here in the Pacific Northwest! We had a lovely time sewing a bralette in March; and this month we are stepping into woven fabrics (literally) by creating a simple pair of pyjama pants with pockets!

Let’s talk about this month’s project!

Whether or not we know it at the time, most of us first start our sewing exploits with woven fabrics. They are stable, they are more generally available (many of us small-town stitchers get our start by using the quilting cottons from local shops) and for a variety of reasons they are used in more beginner projects and classes.

This has been changing of late, though. With the advent of more independent sewing pattern designers we are seeing far more patterns designed for knit fabrics. This has led to a larger baseline knowledge of knit-sewing in the DIY community, as well as many knit custom fabric suppliers – a wonderful change indeed!